-
Auxiliary air leak
-
Thanks again everyone looks like I have some things to check on and then see if I can come up with the problem area. If I am lucky enough to find the problem I will let everyone know if not I will hope I can get through the winter until I can get back to Jeff’s next spring.
-
If you don’t find the leak, at least be aware you can deal with it if you are willing to do a little work. I think your vintage coach may have some solenoid valves in the pnuematic system that shut off when the key is off so you don’t or shouldn’t have air getting past the valves to leak out of the fan belt tensioners, or the door lock or other Prevost items.
That leaves the house, and if you go to a parts house and buy ball valves and a bunch of DOT compression fittings and put them in line with all the converter installed air operated devices you can actually shut off air flow to all devices except those you really need
I installed shut off valves on all my converter circuits and if I were to get a big leak like you now experience I could shut off that circuit and cure the problem until I could get it fixed/
Even if I had no clue where the leak was, all I have to do is shut all valves, and then in a few minutes open them. The valve that has air rushing through it after opening is the one circuit that has the leak.
On my coach I have pocket doors, a cabinet slide, dump valves, generator air bags, air horn, floor slide all on the converter side of the aux air system. But with the shut off valves I have no problem learning which one has the leak, or which one to turn off so I can use the coach.
-
Isolate compressor. it might be back feeding thru ck valve in it. In front steering compartment near ppv there should be a thumb like shut off with a black air line comming into it(from aux air compressor) close it when at full air and see if it holds. that will tell you if your good to there. Bob
-
Jon, you are correct “as usual” I am adding one there at the compressor….one thing I do not like on a Marathon is the type of air connectors they use….as with all convertors each has their ways of doing things…
-
Jeff, and anyone adding a check valve on the air line from the aux compressor.
The easiest place to locate a check valve is at the compressor, but most of the available check valves are not acceptable for high temps. Their principle use in a lot of cases is on fuel lines, including the ones Prevost supplies such as for the rear belt tensioners. If possible locate the check valve remotely from the compressor because that allows the heat of compression to go away before the check valve is reached.
-
Having just read all your responses, I have been looking for an auxilary leak for a while. My converter did not add an aux compressor. I have replaced the check valve and regulator in the last week and isolated both sides from the tension bags, both sides will empty in 24 hours. As long as I’m running the engine all is well. Now I have to start spraying my bubbles in places you guys have added to the problem I have not thought of. Floor slide and dump valve and the like. Lets hope something shows up!
-
Among the biggest and most likely sources of air leaks is the small air lines where they enter the gauges and the driver seat. Others are floor slide cylinder, sewer dump valve and generator air bag regulator and air bags. or the associated fittings.
-
Jon i had a check valve made by a company in canada that is good for 400 hundred degrees made by a company in Canada I bought it at Fort Gary it is for the gas and oil company’s
-
That would probably be OK located right at the compressor.
-
Here is the company I used for a custom made check valve. St. Paul Minn
Specs. H6200 2MM 125 psi. 1/4 NPT X 1/4 NPT (national pipe thread )…..MM = male both ends
A) High heat location construction
B) cracking pressure 5 psi,
C) viton seal
I spoke to there sales dept to place the order. FYI….All Marathons will use 1/4 X 1/4 NPT . Tell them your install will be first piece out of compressor. All pieces will be construction based on high heat . Ask them to increase inside diameter as large as possible for max air flow.
http://www.valvecheckinc.com click check valves 0 – 125
-
I finally found where my air leak was coming from. This is a conection that was in the line going to the regulators of my generator air bags. Now the next problem is where I could get one of these so if anyone has an idea please let me know.
-
Try your yellow pages under …air- fluid pneumatic.
Not to worry it’s a very commmon connector.
When you re-install cut line 1/4 inch past the old seal line on existing hose.
-
I would nt replace that fitting with a push in fitting I would use a comp fitting you can get a tee like that at Grainger
-
I agree with Peter, replace only with compression Tee, even if you had to add a little hose to make it work, with a compression joint.
Log in to reply.