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Another radiator leak!
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If you exert enough force on metal it gives. By giving I mean it flexes. If the force is sufficient the metal “yields” meaning it bends or changes shape permanently.
You cannot bang your fan mount hard enough against the stops because you are not putting anywhere near the force an operating fan provides, but consider all the parts that move or have the potential to move due to flexing and you can see it is likely possible for a fan blade or clutch hub can come close to or contact the radiator.
Obviously the best way to prevent that is to never allow belts to fail or get too old.
One thing to consider also is the engine will rock sideways as you apply torque or shut it down. You have to take that motion into consideration also when checking clearances. My engine on shutdown rocks the coach a little but I really have no way to measure how much motion that is.
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Dick, Mine is a 96 XL40 (CC) – I also removed my belts today just to see how far it might go. I can’t push mine to be any closer than about 1-3/8″ of the fan. Sounds like something’s not quite right there on busses that have had contact damage.
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But how much is all the metal componentry flexing, and how much is the motor rocking on the engine mounts.
I seriously doubt we all have as great a clearance as we think we do, and if the belts have stretched over time as they will do there may already be a risk of contact between fan, clutch and radiator.
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My Bus – 95 chassis XL 40
1st pic, steel limiter w/bag is empty.
2nd pic, steel limiter w/bag full, 5 yr old AX74 belts w/20k+ miles. No evidence that the 2 steel surfaces of the travel limiter have ever made contact with each other. If I ever notice any contact, I’ll know it is time to change the belts.
last pic, distance from fan the radiator w/bag full, 1 5/8″.
*NOTE* NO X brace ?
Question?? What buses have the X brace??
Mine doesn’t have a X brace, so I reckon I’ll never have the rubbing problem. -
I have just gone through this same issue, i had my fan assy and gearbox out, upon rebuild i checked the travel of my fan without belts in place, it can and will touch the radiator cross brace, i have fitted a mechanical stop to preventthis in the event of belt failure.
One thing to check is the pedestal mount that the fan assy sits on, Prevost give a measurement from the base of the mount to side rail on the engine cradle, i think that it is around 90 mm ?
The pedestal is adjustable towards the radiator and or engine, if the pedestal is not set correctly and is to far towards radiator you will have reduced Fan to radiator clearance
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I went back and looked at the setup again. Another potential culprit might be worn or loose engine mounts. As torque is applied the engine could tilt enough to the driver side to allow the fanhub to contact the radiator despite the limit bar.
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All great feedback!!! Thanks so much!
Day #3 Update
Radiator shop says radiator is too far gone to fix. Options are replace (Prevost has one in Nashville) or recore which the radiator shop can do. Recore is at least $1,300 less expensive. I’m leaning towards recore.
Asking those who have recored a Prevost radiator … good move? Work out OK in long run? Or was it a mistake? Do it again?
Looking for quick feedback. Pulled recore trigger late this afternoon, but can pull the bullet back first thing in morning.
PS: wish I was in Vonore, but I’m not.
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Yes, worn out and/or loose engine mount could definitely cause some problems.
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Hello Dick,
I’ve been keeping up with your issue and I feel for you in having this problem. Especially on the road.
And, as I usually say, “my two cents worth”.
I’ve had no experience with a radiator problem with a Prevost, but have had radiator issue experience a few times in the past with my vehicles and others that I have pulled wrenches on.
In my opinion the quality of a recored radiator is entirely dependent on the facility that did the job. I have had very good experience with recored units having had no problems. However, I have knowledge of one or two that had problems due to poor workmanship. If I had you problem, I would recore the radiator, but would have to be absolutely certain that the shop doing it was top shelf and experienced with this type of radiator.
Again, my “two cents worth”. Hope it helps.
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I’ve had mixed experience on re-cores with old automobiles but the labor to change one is pretty low. On the bus I might opt for the new radiator. Labor is much more extensive with the bus and the same either with either part, but for me the peace of mind would be worth it.
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Like you, we weighed the pros and cons and decided to go with new. Prevost worked with us a little on the final price. As they say, “there’s not like new”.
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Get the new one from Prevost. Probably will be a better bet in the long run. Also, how long to get a core to fix the old one? Just bite the bullet and buy new. That way the tanks and everything else will be new.
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When I was considering recoring vs new, the spread was only about $400, not $1300. If it was the latter, I too may have done the recore. I hope you go new. From bad memory, think I paid about $3200 for new. Jeff knows for sure. My copy of records went with the previous bus.
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I’am on the Mark (Mr Duluth ) bench.
Do not go with a re-core using the old tanks, there 20 years old.
They are playing on you. Without the re-core choice they lost business.
A new Prevost radiator will have a national warranty. If by chance it fails…A change out can be handled at probably any HD truck shop.
Is the re-core warranty 90 days ?
Just my opinion…for what its worth.
AL
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I do not see the choice as black and white. I have had a radiator recored, and I have also had enough of my coolant systems apart to know it can look like new regardless of age if the coolant was correct and well maintained.
The radiator top and bottom need to be inspected. If the fins are corroded or the tubes are failing it is likely from external corrosives such as road salt.
If the radiator ends look good and are not damaged by corrosion, internally or externally I see a recore as a viable option. If however there is any damage or corrosion a new one is the only way to go.
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