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George,
I have not traveled since I had the problem Saturday. I usually travel every Saturday but I may not move this week. I will let you know as soon as I know something. It was only 32 that night but maybe it was the cold.
Davy
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The shifter went right into drive today, however it did have to be pressed twice and a little harder than usual. It was 26 degrees over night and 36 when we cranked the bus so no extreme temps.
Although I intended to check the fluid level once everything was up to operating temperature I completely forgot until this evening. I will be traveling later this week so maybe I will remember then.
Davy
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I just came back from a trip and had the same problem, actually had this issue for years, had no clue what was causing it to happen. Was going to ask the forum what order they performed the brake and shift functions. Sometime I would release the E brake and punch D and it was like it was still in N. My frist thought was alway the Tranny has failed. But thinking about it If I select D and feel the Tranny working I release the E Brake and all is good. So I think it is a function of the Transmission and the Braking system. I will check again but just stepping on the Service Brake is not good enough.
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Shifter worked normally today. It was 32 degrees overnight and about 50 when I cranked it up. After I had driven about 20 miles and the engine and transmission were at operating temps I checked the level of the transmission fluid at the shifter. It was idling on level ground with the parking brake applied and the transmission in neutral. I pressed both arrows at the same time and these three readings were flashing in series and kept it up until I hit N again. I believe it was in this order but not 100% positive.
Interpretation please.
Davy
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Here is a PDF for the 3000/4000 Allison transmission operations and code manual. The codes are listed about page 90-100
http://www.beaveramb.org/PDF/PDF%20Manuals/allisoninformation/Allison%20Transmission%202.pdf
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Thank you for the PDF. The pages I need for checking oll level are 63-65.
The “O L” “represents Fluid Level Check Mode.”
The “- -” is a “fault code that indicates conditions are not proper to receive the fluid level information or there is a system malfunction.”
The “5 9” is a fault code indicating “engine speed (RPM) too high.”
The instruction on page 63 state:
–The engine is at idle
-The transmission ouput shaft is stopped.
-The vehicle has been stationary for approximately two minutes to allow the fluid to settle.
Perhaps it needs to be on low idle since I threw the “5 9” code. PLUS I did it as soon as I stopped since I did not know I needed to wait two minutes.
I should be traveling again on Thursday so I will try to remember to check it again and report back.
Davy
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The fluid check is something that cannot be rushed.
After driving the temps are too high for a reading so before beginning the check allow the coach to idle for several minutes. I believe the temps need to be below 180 and that takes a while to reach. I think on your coach Davy you have a transmission temp gauge on the dash so let that get below 180 at least. It usually tracks engine temp, and if you used the retarder it could read higher than engine temp.
When you do press the arrows the system still does a delay before reading. It counts down so you will not get an immediate fluid temp reading. It has to be at low idle, and obviously the ground has to be level.
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Thank you. Just as I suspected from the destructions in the PDF.
Davy
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We traveled about 90 miles today and when we arrived I parked in a level spot, put it in neutral and low idle. After about 3 minutes I pressed both arrows. It immediately flashed these two codes.
The “O L” “represents Fluid Level Check Mode.”
“O K” means the level is within range.
So at least I know the problem with the stubborn drive button was not because of low fluid. It was 40 over night and in the 50’s when I started today and the shifter gave me no problem whatsoever. It could be on its way out and that makes it sensitive to the cold. I have heard from some that the their shift pad gave them limited and intermittant problems for years before biting the dust.
Davy
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Davy, that’s exactly what happens. It will get to the point where you don’t want to deal with it and you’re just waiting for it to leave you high and dry. Geo.
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Is the shift pad an easy replacement? Someone one of us could do in the field?
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The simple answer is yes(depending on conversion). We had it done on our XL by Stewart Stevenson Las Vegas part: 9200/labor 1000 10/12 and on our H by Inland Diesel Wi part: 9800/labor 840 9/14. Be sure to use the Allison part no. not the Prevo no., more than 4000 difference. Geo.
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Wow! $1000+! I will be milking this one for all its worth. Must not be too difficult to replace because both those labor rates look to be less than an hour.
Davy
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