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Air Tank Manual Drain Cocks
Recently opened every tank drain cock while under the Bus to check for water in system. Has anyone added pull drain valves with steel cables to their tanks ? Seems like a good add and route the cable for easy access without going under Bus. Are all the current drain cock valves 1/4 inch NPT threads ?
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14 Replies
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Cable operated drains go back to the old days when trucks did not have dryers and draining the tanks daily was required.
There is no reason you cannot install them and I presume a quick internet search will reveal a number of sources. But what you will miss if you pull a cable versus being at the drain itself is the ability to detect even small amounts of water or oil.
So far it has been my experience that draining the tanks at least every 5000 miles when I service my coach I see zero moisture, but I do hold my hand beneath each drain as I open it because small amounts of moisture can be blown out as a fine mist, not easily seen. As my compressor ages it will pass oil and until it needs replacing I want to be able to see that and adjust my 2 year air dryer maintenance schedule to compensate.
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I put them on my wet tank on a couple buses, but was hard to find a good route for the cable to keep away from the tires. I’ve since just relied on the wet tank drain in the engine compartment.
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Are these 1/4 inch NPT threads ?
1999 XLV X-6872, liberty #440 -
That’s a new one on me. Is there a wet tank drain in the engine compartment or is my model not so equipped?
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My coach has a drain valve in the curb side engine door compartment. Prevost
Manual PA-1082 pages 12-5 and 12-6 snipped below:
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I suspect we all can debate how and when to drain the various air tanks, and to a certain extent it is going to be influenced by how we use the coach and who converted the coach. If we have slides and have to use the aux compressor for lengthy periods to keep the slide seals inflated out wet tank is not going to show much moisture, but the potential for the accessory tank to get water in it increases.
As an owner you decide how and when you will drain and check your tanks. Try to keep in mind why you are doing this and how this is beneficial. My reason is to me important. I drain them in sequence and check each tank for moisture or moisture and oil. That tells me the condition of my compressor and dryer. If I get moisture or oil or both I know I have to consider servicing the dryer or being alert for a potential end of life situation with the compressor.
But by draining them in sequence I am also verify all the safety devices buikt into my air system are functioning, and that a catastrophic loss of air in part of the system will not deplete the air in the remained of the system. Total air loss can greatly compromise safety so to me I want the comfort of knowing the system is functioning.
With the system totally drained I also have a good check of alarms and the air system fill sequence being able to note the working alarms, pressure building, and finally the accessory system not receiving any air until the brake systems have been satisfied.
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When changing the air dryer filter (location in front of drive tires) will the system lose air and lower the bus from ride height ?
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Your question scared the hell out of me for two reasons.
The first is the way I read the question is it suggested you are going to relocate the dryer and in doing that you are concerned the bus will fall down because there is going to be an air loss.
So I will address that first. Don’t even contemplate getting under a coach unless and until you have fully supported the chassis at the support points. Just so it is understood clearly you are betting your life the air bags will support the coach.
The answer is with the key off your suspension should be “locked” because the valves that control air in or out of the air bags are in the position to hold air in the air bags. I don’t care how good or how long your coach sits without leaning never ever get under the coach unless it has the chassis supported.
But the second concern seems to suggest you want to relocate the dryer. If that is why the question was asked try to keep in mind that where ever it is located it needs to be in a location away from the heat of the engine, and it needs a air line from the compressor long enough to enable the water vapor in the air line to condense because the dryer cannot separate water vapor from the air.
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Think you misinterpreted my question. I`m not relocating anything, just simply changing out the filter and was wondering the system should be depleted of air? Yes, I do have the bus supported with jacks and also setting on ramps. With bus on ramps, air can be completely be exhausted from system and still get underneath the bus safely. Appreciate your concern, but ain`t getting under this yacht without safety first.
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Steve, his glasses were fogged over because his coach is at 58 degree’s and he misread your post. He’s right beside me at the Seminar and I had to put a coat on to visit him.
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Cooool Tom. Keep him warm.
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Completed Air Dryer Filter change out. Took 10 mins to spin off filter, clean housing, vaseline new filter gasket and spin it on. Turned key on and pumped all air from brake system and bleed air at engine bay valve before removing old filter. Pic of old filter shows how nasty it was. Will do this every 5k miles.
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Unless it takes you more than 2 years to get 5k miles, it would be a waste. Once every two years should be plenty unless you have a bad air compressor that is passing lots of oil. They part is cheap, so if you want to do it more often, it won’t hurt anything, but 5k seems pretty low to me….
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I added pull cables to my Flxible. Sure beats getting dirty under the bus!
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