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Air seat solenoid valve replacement
1984 Liberty Coach. I’m rebuilding the National Seating Company air suspension for my driver seat. I think I found a new air bag and strut, although mine seem okay. I have a toggle switch (MOM-OFF-MOM) on my side panel that goes to a terminal block in the steering compartment, but the rest of the system has been removed. I can’t find where the old valve was located.
I guess what I need is a 3-way/3-position solenoid valve to inflate/hold/deflate the bag. Does that sound about right? I have no additional features like lumbar support, there’s just a single 1/8″ line to the seat air bag. That air line was cut just below the floor. Since the wires from the terminal block to the solenoid valve were also removed, I can’t even tell if this valve was mounted on the seat or in the steering compartment.
Are there any Liberty Coach owners of a close vintage that can describe their setup, or anyone with suggestions for a fresh install?
1984 96" with 8V92TA
(remodeled Liberty Coach)
Greenwood, MO -
9 Replies
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Chad,
If the valve(s) are to open and admit air, close and hold air, or open to exhaust air then in my little mind I see an opportunity to create an almost fool proof way to do that.
Start with simple valves that are normally closed. Dedicate one to admit air, the other to exhaust it. If you want to get sophisticated design a small circuit with some micro-switches to function as ride height controls. I would stay simple and just use a rocker switch with on-off-on positions with the top “on” to add air, and the bottom “on” to exhaust air. If your seat air bag and the fittings are leak free you have a simple, easily serviced, and reliable air seat.
Put the solenoid valves in the steer compartment, and mount the switch on the seat or even on the dash.
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Jon, I would not be surprised to learn that that is how it was originally plumbed. My Level Low is set up that way, using two normally-closed Skinner valves to control each corner. They’re arranged in a six pack, effectively creating an input manifold with individual exhausts. The only difference is that the switches are ON-OFF-ON, rather than momentary like the seat.
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That is the way to do it then. Simple, easily serviced and to wear a belt with your suspenders add a manual shut off valve to each valve for service and to be able to manually control the seat if a solenoid valve fails.
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I thought about getting a Versa Valve like the one used to slide my stair cover in and out, but their catalog was pretty confusing. It probably would have been a bit spendy too, I think. I have Skinner solenoid valves all over the place on the bus, but they’re becoming a headache to source too. And usually $50-$100 each. So I thought I’d try using a couple of cheap 12vdc solenoids from Amazon. The reviews are surprisingly good, and it’s cheap to carry a handful as spares. If this works out, I may start going this way with my other Skinner valves. All-in cost is $40 for this setup. The biggest hassle was going to the hardware store for some M4 screws to mount the solenoids to the bracket that I fabricated out of a metal electrical box cover. I couldn’t get the exact length of screw that I needed, so I cut a couple of spacers out of some rubber. The screw holes on the solenoids are very shallow.
2000 Featherlite H3-45
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Leesburg, FL -
I am having level low issues in the front of my coach and because of the year of my coach, I have not been able to track down the control (Valves) so I can check their function. I notice you posted a picture of valves that control your level low.
If I may ask, where are those located on your coach?
Richard
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I use similar valves from Amazon for my rear air dump, they work very well.
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In my last bus 1980 Liberty it had on dash for leveling 3 metal push/pull flat knobs, push to add air pull to exhaust, the exhaust was internal in valve knob. Now the drivers seat had the same, push to raise, pull to lower Simple. Just a valve with a push / pull knob
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Richard, the six-pack of Skinner solenoid valves is directly below the driver’s left knee or so, on the ceiling of the steering bay. It’s custom made using those six valves and brass fittings and nipples. The driver controls are electrical toggle switches on the left panel. All of those wires run to terminal blocks on the back wall of the steering compartment, above the accessory air tank.
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Thank you Chad, I will remove the access panel to expose them and see if I can find out why it is not operating my front ride height. When I charge the air system, the rear come up, but the front does not. I can manually press the side dash (front) valve and get the front to ride height, but it will not do it on its own.
Richard
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