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Air Dryer Leak
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On a semi you see them closer to the compressor but they are not enclosed in a closed engine compartment like a bus. It is a heat/moisture problem. It was not located there just to cause us to say ******—–. Bob
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Our Eagle bus conversion had the dryer in a easy to get to compartment between the back axle and the radiator. It however had a cooling coil in between the drive wheels up next to the floor and was about 5 “S” shapes that all the air went through to get from the compressor to the dryer. Same principle I suppose as Prevost moving the dryer forward.
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Great point on having enough hose between the compressor and dryer to allow the air to cool some.
Jon, CC didn’t place the dryer there, Prevost did. The placement is such that there’s not enough room to slide the purge valve out without hitting the frame cross member. You are correct that it’s bit harder to access the primary tank drain with the condenser placement were it is. I use the storage bays more than I need to access the tank drain, so I’m happy to always have the extra storage space
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Gil,
I put a lanyard on Peter’s Royale for the wet tank and would pull it each time I did my walk around. I always had lanyards on trucks to keep the tanks dry.
I don’t understand our comment about the dryer drain in the engine compartment. Could you expand on that a little? I assumed you were talking about the rear fill valve for all air tanks.
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If the dryer location/engine compartment ? was for me. I was referring to Dryer not tank drain. Was referring that on semi-truck their engine compartment compared to our bus is open air so the air line from the compressor doesn’t have to be as long. At least that was the way it was explained to me when I ask Bendix years ago. Also the higher heat hurts the ability of the dryer to do it’s job. Bob
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Tom,
The rear fill is just that. It’s not really a drain. It can be used as a dryer input drain but only until the dryer is fully loaded. At that point air can’t escape through the fitting on the dryer that the rear fill hose is attached to.
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Gil,
This would be easier under the awning… Dryer drain makes no sense to me. The rear fill (supply) tee’s with the compressor (supply) at the dryer. Are you saying the dryer has moisture at that point and can be drained through the rear fill? If there was moisture at that point, it would pass through the cartridge anyway on it’s way to the wet tank. The control line for the unloader gets it’s pressure from the wet tank. The exhaust from the compressor unloader purges at the dryer. If you took the dryer completely out of the system, the way it was in the old days, the purge of air at say 120 lbs would exhaust at the unloader.
Not arguing with you, just trying to understand the dryer drain concept, doesn’t add up.
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Tom,
Given what I know now, a dryer drain makes little sense to me either. However, the remote valve contains both a fill (schrader valve) and drain valve. Here’s exactly what is stated in section 12 of the Prevost manual.
“A remote valve located in engine compartment and accessible through engine R.H. side door is use to drain the air dryer.” FYI, the manual has “drain” in bold.
Yes this would effectively drain what is coming into the dryer from the engine compressor if the dryer has not reached it’s loaded pressure. I think the value of this drain is really to clear this line going to the air dryer prior to hooking up a remote air source. A Prevost tech once told me that this line could have a fair amount of water in it. Water that doesn’t matter in normal operation. But why push water into the dryer from the remote fill if you can first drain it?
Make sense?
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Yes that makes some sense, moisture in the line to the rear fill wouldn’t move until you filled from the rear. I figured if there was some moisture it would pass on through the canister anyway, but as you pointed out, why put more moisture to the filter if you don’t have to. Going forward, I’ll purge some air from my quick coupler before filling from the rear.
Good info….. We could have accomplished this with 1 beer in person!:)
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If not one beer, maybe two or so. That’s the way I’d prefer to do it anyway 🙂
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Good discourse. I will drink a beer to the things I just learned.
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Yep, never know what you might learn. You can see the sticker by my quick coupler and it says, “Air Brake System Fill.” Never looked in the manual, but now I know.
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Peter, if you mean alternator when you say generator these folks have the best deal………..
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Yes I do Jon thanks a lot do u think its better to rebuild or get new one ??
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I had a 50DN alternator act up on my 97 and when I tested it I found it wasn’t something simple like a diode so I started checking on prices. The rebuilders wanted around $500. New ones from other sources were in the $1000 plus range and required a core. Elreg wanted $864 and no core. I assumed it was a Chinese knock off but decided to take a risk.
Turns out it was a Delco just like the one on the coach. Same castings, same logo and cheaper than anything else around.
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