[JIM]

I believe I had the awning to which you are referring on my 1990 Marathon. In 6 years of ownership, I only had to perform repairs once when either a lock failed or I forgot to lock it and the wind got it while I was driving…big noise. Thereafter, I installed 2 travel locks. In my opinion, the major drawback of the awning was that it was an effort to extend and retract (I would often retract it if windy) and I found myself not using it as often as I would have liked.

Current coach has the Zip-Dee Autoawn. I use it frequently due to it’s ease of use, when it works. It is a complex unit, not very reliable and fairly expensive to maintain.

I did install a Girard on a trailer I used circa 2002. In the 2 or so years I used it (frequently) maintenance was limited to a single minor adjustment. It’s major issue was that it did not shed water well and could not be used in the rain.

I’ve also had experience with several of the automatic awnings which come as standard on the ‘plastic coaches’. I have found them all unsatisfactory.

If I were in your position (I’m pretty darn close) and willing to go through the trouble of an upgrade, I think I would do more homework and install a modern automatic Girard or Zip-Dee unless there’s another major player in the game now.

[Archived]

Most of us with manual Zip Dees have what you are describing. Mine works fine and is not hard to deploy or retract now that ZipDee publishes instruction on how their deployment/retraction tool works. FWIW, Zip Dee is introducing a new all electric awning that looks almost identical to the manual awning. It MAY be worth considering.

BTW, I like the idea of window only awnings which are common on plastic coaches. Of course, the Prevost windows would make having both almost impossible.

[Archived]

If I where you Ken, I would just keep what you have. I would love to have window awnings like yours, problem is, can’t have both.

[Archived]

My 93 Angola has the 23 ft “patio” awing. It works fine. I find it easy to put out but more difficult to take down

I find that disengaging the claw on the rafter (the end that is manually raised at the coach wall with a “reach rod”) out of the casing slot is difficult. I often end up banging the end of the support rod against the painted side of the coach or worse loosing control of the rafter and having it bang into the wall or window glass. There are scuff marks after 20 years of use.

I sometimes have to re-roll the awing a couple of time to get all the fabric under the metal cover. This is generally caused by me holding the strap to loosely and the fabric bunches and leaves an un-rolled section out from under the cover. I re-roll to get under if the coach is to be driven.

[Archived]

IF you do what joel says you could have both since the Auto awnings attach to the roof line on top.

[Ken]

The only awning I would consider putting on the coach would be the original ZipDee awning, manually operated with the arms. I had that type on 2 coaches spanning 22 years and with the exception of having to replace a couple of brakes which involves three pop rivets they were trouble free. They will get damaged in heavy winds so as long as you respect that and supplement the brakes with latches for travel you will have little or no problems.

Personally I would not add one because the coach has the small awnings which are virtually bullet proof. It does mot provide shade if you are sitting out, but those awnings keep the inside cool and are fast and easy to use.

[Bryan]

Thanks for the responses. I think for me the original manual
ZipDee would be best. I was getting ready to stimulate the economy and then Jon’s
good solid advice about keeping what I have may result in another 6 months of low
GNP expansion.

Ken

[Archived]

Ken, I don’t know if they still make this model, but my ’90 40 footer had a ZipDee where the rafter arms were attached to a sliding rail affixed on the side of the bus. See my not too good photo. Unfortunately I don’t have a picture handy showing awning extended. To set up, all I had to do was unlock the latches, pull out the awning, lock the roller brakes and then push up on the rafter arms until they locked at the top of the rail. It took less than a minute. I much prefer that awning to the manual ZipDee that I now have, which requires lifting the rafter arms into place at the roofline. My old one was also very stable in wind and could be staked to the ground to withstand unexpected gusts.

Rail visible to the rear of entry door:

.