[Archived]

Diane,

Are you sure you got that info from Ben correct? I do not see what you are decribing at all. If I go to a site with 30-amp service, I have to set the AC1 amps and I have to change the initial charging amps to 5. Otherwise, the fist bag of popcorn in the micriowave trips the service pole breaker. It does not automatically adjust the charging amps.

[Greg]

If you are utilizing a “30-amp” plug, which is 120volts ONLY, the 30-amps is split and fed to each outside lug of the plug, and that single breaker feeds both “legs” of power in your breaker panel; thus, the “Set Shore Cord Size” on each inverter must be set to less than 15-amps per inverter.

Red button on far left of Inverter panel takes you to “Set Inverter: Off, Search, On, Chrg”

Hitting the far left black button, Menu Items Down button, the screen then displays “Set Shore Cord size XXamps”

Utilizing the Setpoints up and down buttons increases or decreases the number value displayed.

I usually would suggest setting these each at 12-13 amps on each inverter for a 30-amp shore outlet.

Adjusting the Max Charge Amps in the Setup Menu # 10 is not necessary. That value on each inverter should be left at the default of “15 amps.” The inverter will automatically decrease charging rate as the combined current draw from the charger and down-stream loads on that leg approach the “shore cord size” setting for amp limit.

[Archived]

for 50amp service, what would you suggest setting the max amp setting 40?

[tom]

That is what I would do. I know how little maintenance most RV parks do on their power supply boxes and I have had very little problem adhering to my self imposed 40 amp limit. But I know others such as Diane and Larry who are set up for more and they are also not experiencing issues.

I’m just a belt and suspenders guy.

[Archived]

Can you power everything in your coach on 40A as Jon suggests? If so, 40A would be fine, if not your inverter will have to supplement commercial power, your charging current will be reduced, and/or you’ll have to shed some load (all depending on your inverter’s functionality and configuration).

Personally, I would want the setting at least equal to my coach’s demands. You should not worry about setting it up as high as 50A. If you’re worried about power campground power, and you should be, your primary worry should be low voltage. If you don’t have an intelligent voltage monitoring device I recommend you invest in one.

[Archived]

Our coach is an energy hog. I suspect most of our coaches eat a lot of electric. With my goal to limit the current draw per leg to 40 amps I can have the following circuits and devices on:

Up to 3 Cruiseairs but at least 2, refrigerator, HW heater, water pump, aux air compressor, TV circuits, all outlets coffee maker, dryer, and awnings. To understand that, since all coaches are not necessarily equipped the same, our water pump is a 120V Headhunter, our aux compressor is 120V, both drawing up to 10 (+/-) amps. The HW heater draws about 10 amps. We typically use the coffee maker and dryer when it is morning so it is unlikely our AC units are all runnning.

If we use the microwave, cooktop, or the outside grill I have to turn off one or two Cruiseairs until we are done cooking. That usually amounts to my total energy management effort.

I have the inverters set at a low charge rate so if we burn a lot of battery power during the day with excessive light use the batteries are all recharged over night. Liberty has set up the 120V panel so our loads are somewhat evenly distributed on the two legs. Our current draw goes up and down as devices kick on and off. We have no control directly over what time the aux compressor, water pump or HW tank draws power nor do we control when the Cruiseairs cycle on and off so the loads are up and down all the time, but except for when I see the starting current as a result of a Cruiseair kicking on the max I see is just under 40 amps.

If it is so unbearably hot out that I need to use the 4th Cruiseair, plus I want to cook or use the outside grill I just start the generator rather than risking tripping a shore power breaker.

[Archived]

Energy hog is right.

Our electric bills for our unoccupied bus, sitting on our lot with a couple of cruise airs left on to prevent excessive heat and moisture and, of course, the chassis and house battery chargers on, were consistently higher than the electric bills for the house we are living in. The refrigerator was also on in order to have some cold drinks available.

Hard to believe but true…

[Susan]

I usually tell our customers to try 45amps for Shore Cord Size on each inverter and if they experience any nuissance tripping, set them down to 40amps on each and see how that goes.
I have had some people have to “dial down” the setting all the way to 30amps per inverter to prevent tripping.

The big problem with campground shore power breakers is that the pole with the breakers is sitting outside, subject to heat up in the hot sun, then cool down at night and during cooler seasons. The heat up and cool down tends to cause loose connections to the breaker, the plug, and the high ambient heat and direct sunlight during the day “derates” the breaker further. Also, being out in the “elements” year-round, corrosion of terminals further contributes to bad connections. Plus, the more times that “house-hold style” breaker trips, the less amps it is “good for” in the future. I see this problem in campgrounds that are only a few years old, as well as those that have been there for years. The ones that have been around and had large motorhomes as clients for a while tend to understand and keep up with maintenance, keeping things tight on a regular basis, but most don’t understand the need to do this, hence the problems listed above…

Ben Cummings
Parliament Motor Coach
888-571-5755, ext 230
813-830-8619 (Cell)
ben@parliamentcoach.com