[Tim]

The pump and power to run the pump are 24vdc. It is a very robust pump. The motor almost never goes out but maybe the seals failed with age and that is why the prevous owner yanked it out. Under most circumstances, the differential pressure across the pump on the engine will circulate enough hot water to the front to keep you warm and provide defrosting, so one option if you tend to stay in milder climates is to put in a “jumper line” out of heater hose and 2 barb fittings, and leave the pump out. Of course, if you prefer the Canadian tundra in the winter, which is what these coaches were designed for, then you will want to replace the pump to ensure the volume of hot water to ensure you have the thermal capacity to keep the windshield defrosted in the icy winters at below 0 degree climates.

[Walter]

???? Struggling with this…why would someone remove the pump without closing the circuit / loop?

[Archived]

I probably will irritate some folks with this observation, but some owners do the dumbest things.

Over the years I have seen owners go out of their way to work around something or to remove something because it needed a simple repair and they weren’t going to spend the money or they rationalized they didn’t need it. There have been all kinds of crazy ideas offered, such as reducing the air pressure to the tag axle air bags so the overloaded front of the coach will come to ride height quicker. Getting rid of all the excess crap in the bay apparently did not occur to the person suggesting the change. Or how about the guy that went from AGM batteries to lead acid because of the cost, ignoring the fact the acid fumes from charging just might be an issue, or the guy that removed most house batteries because he doesn’t dry camp (or stay overnight at Walmart).

I am all in favor of us making changes to our coaches but there are somethings that we should not be messing with.

[Archived]

Having just gone through a similar situation (not the front pump GONE but the pump’s fuse was blown) I can tell you that without that front pump working you probably won’t get any heat at all. If you want 12v heat you’ll need to replace it.

Walt

[Dick]

Remember, another great source of heat is your Webasto while driving, doesn’t fire the Webasto, just lots of even heat throughout the coach heated by the series 60.

[Dick]

Tom: Please explain how that works and how you make it work like that. Thanks!

[Archived]

If I wish to use the aquahot/webasto unit to heat the coach going down the road, I turn on switch/button to start the diesel burner. I then set the thermostat for the diesel heat to whatever temperature I want. Since the detroit diesel is running, the circulating antifreeze will keep the temperature above the level that the diesel burner will fire. Therefore we do get heat through the coach without diesel burner running, and using the heat generated from the detroit diesel.

In my coach the only problem is lack of a heat outlet all the way at the front of the coach to warm the driver/front seat passenger. Other than that works fine. This is also the best way to insure heat in whatever bays the diesel burner (aquahot/webasto) heats while driving down the road in very cold weather.

[Tim]

Dick,

On your coach you have to make sure the valves are open for heat from the Webasto for the house. Assuming they are all you have to do is turn on the Webasto. Once the coolant circulating through the Webasto is at or above the burner cut out temp (which is around 160) the Webasto will function in the house without firing the diesel burner. The only downside to using that instead of the driver’s or OTR is you won’t get the defroster function because the chassis system will not be working.

I used to use the dash heat and the Webasto when driving in cold weather, and on occasion I also used OTR for heat to get even more heat distribution.