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12V feed to trailer, hub cap, Webasto
Completing our third trip in the coach this week. Has been performing well and we love traveling in it. Three questions:
1) The trailer hitch plug does not have any voltage at the 12V+ pin. All the other outputs, running lamp, turns signals, trailer electric brake work. I wanted to use this to keep the toad battery charged while traveling with Brake Buddy and sometimes leaving the parking lights on for better illumination. Is there a relay or switch that controls this feed, or do I need to start tracing the wiring back from the trailer plug to look for a break or never connected status?
2) One of the front Liberty badged hub caps fell off or was stolen last week. Where can I buy one of these? I found generic ones online, but wanted to match the other 3 with Liberty logos.
3) Cooler weather and dry camping on this trip prompted use of the Webasto heat which worked fine. As far as I can figure from watching the voltmeters in coach this system only draws off the house battery system. Does anyone know differently? What I want to avoid is a no start on a cold morning due to draining the start batteries.
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8 Replies
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Hub caps come from Real Wheels
Webasto system does operate off the house battery system
Fuse number 49 I believe in the second bay feeds the tow plug power, it should go to the converter box area above the engine then to the plug
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David: Do you have a dedicated battery charger for the chassis batteries? Liberty typically installed one in the engine bay with a dedicated 120volt receptacle on its own circuit and breaker. If its original and huge, that’s probably the old technology charger which should be replaced with a current day technology smart charger. That’s your insurance policy against dead start batteries in the morning or when you’re about to take all your buddies out for a coach ride.
None of us should ever leave home without a smart charger hard wired to our chassis batteries. Doesn’t need to be on all the time, just when we need it.
BUT … if your chassis batteries are always low after a few days, that doesn’t relieve us of determining what is causing the battery drain and fixing it. A previous owner or coach hacker could have wired something direct to the chassis batteries which is a constant drain on them.
Jeff: Good tip. Everytime I start the Webasto I wonder where it gets it electricity from and I think to myself, “I should post something on the PC Forum or ask Jeff.” Then I shut the Webasto off and forget about it.
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Yup, those memory lapses are the direct result of advancing age……welcome to my world Dick, and just so you know Post-its help until you forget to read the post-its.
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Thanks to all for the replies. I have not had time to trace the wiring on the hitch plug 12V feed. Did find the mentioned fuse in the panel, actually has a circuit breaker there. Did not have voltmeter in hand to check at the time, got busy, then on to other things.
Thanks to Jeff for the Webasto information, good to know won’t cause a no start in the AM. Have not been having chassis battery problems, looked do not have the big charger that I could find anywhere. Bought a NOCO genius and will install that someday for use when I know am causing a drain such as leaving running lights on or working on bus. Also for the hub cap source, I had found them online, but was not aware they could provide the cap with Liberty logo on it. Have new cap from them ready to install when get back to the bus.
I have a new question – does anyone know the breaker/circuit design amps for the 220 circuit that worked the (missing when I bought coach) outdoor grill in bay 2 on right side of the bus? The wiring is still there, and looks to be maybe 10awg so I am guessing this was a 20 or 30 amp circuit? I want to use it for an auxiliary 220 plug to run an air compressor or welder. Yes I know I should not be carrying around extra air compressors or welders and I don’t plan to, but as little kids say poo poo happens and it would be handy to have a spot to plug such things in.
Happy Holidays to all. Hope Santa brings everyone that new TPMS or whatever you have been dreaming about.
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David, the outdoor grille gets its power from the main electric panel in the kitchen area.
You have a couple of 240V devices on there such as the cooktop and maybe the washer/dryer and you have CBs for each leg on opposite sides of the panel (across from one another).
The power for the outdoor grille is the same, but you might not have labels on the panel for the device. Look for opposing blank CBs in the electric panel and likely that is your source of power for the receptacle in the 2nd bay for the grille.
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David, as far as an extra 220 VAC plug, you have a Liberty, so should have a Buddy Plug to supply that voltage, but it is powered by the Generator. Have fun learning as it is non-stop.
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Yes, the panel has opposing CBs for the grill, they are one on each side just like the stove top, and they are labeled “cooking grill” or something like that. My question is what amperage are the breakers? Unlike a home electrical panel where the breakers have a number on the handle or body showing the amperage, the breakers on the Liberty panel are all just white toggles with no markings. For that matter I don’t know the amperage of any of them. I suppose if I went behind the panel – by removing it seems the only way, unless you can get at it by taking out the refrigerator – no fun either it might be marked on the body of the breaker. Otherwise you can’t tell the amperage of the breakers. I suppose it might be on a wiring diagram somewhere that I don’t have, or don’t know that I have.
Yes thanks for the buddy plug suggestion, I was thinking of when I am hooked to shore power. Also I would need to make up an adapter for the 50A four wire outlet to a 3 wire 220 plug and would not then be CB protected except for the main generator output breaker amperage.
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David, in my Liberty the 2nd CS bay has a large plastic fresh water tank. So, I re-purposed the one 240v/30amp outlet into two 120v/15amp outlets w/usb charger and re-labeled the CBs in the electrical cabinet. I have no need for a 240v/30amp in my bay. If I ever do, I can put it back as it was before.
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