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Yankee bus lift
In order to have enough room to get under the bus I had some planks milled. 4 inches thick each. With the bus all the
way up, I have 21 inches of clearence. Not in the pic is the hardwood blocking I used to hold the bus up after the air is drained. I started replacing my norgrens this weekend. I drain my air out 3 times a year and I still found water in one of the norgrens. Rick
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44 Replies
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Hardwood … as in oak?
What size blocking?
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I used white ash only because thats what I had at the time. The bottem peice is about 24 ins wide and 6ft 6in long. The top is a little storter for the ramp effect. The 4×6 blocking I used is oak. Rick
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So you’re able to support an entire corner of the bus on oak 4″x6″s. Do you pile them one wide? or two side? (so you have 12″ wide essentially so supporting the bus). Thanks for the info.
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The 4×6 blocking is 18in long and is stacked like you would do to jack up a house. I had 2 sets up front on each corner of the frame and 2 in the rear just in front of the drive axle. I cut another 4×6 peice 14.5in long to go in the rear between the frames near where the drive axle air bag is. When you drain the air in the rear bags if you don,t use this peice the frame will drop too low. When you look at the bus from the side with all the air out of the air bags it looks as if you hadn’t lit any air out at all. I can take a pic of the last peice 14.5 long this weekend to show where it is located. This is a great set up to replace the norgrens. I can sit up and get at everthing. Tight in some places but you can get the job done. Rick
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Looks nice your ramps, Can you rework those norgens ?
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Looks like a great setup Rick… Tell me how you feel after those 3 ports above the tag!:)
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Are you feeding your aux air thru the filter in the front steering compartment? That’s along way for water to travel otherwise in the air system. Run up looks good.
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Bob I don’t know how the air system is set up. But I did change the air dryer filter out last year. As far as reworking the norgrens. I’d rather replace with new. Only 2 out of 10 have ever been changed. If anyone would like to have them to rebuild just ask there yours and I’ll pay the shipping! Other wise I’m going to throw them away. Rick
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Like Rick I used wood blocks for chassis support when the bus was stored in a barn whe we lived in western NY. Hardwood blocking has some advantages in that the weight of the coach is distributed over a fairly large area. I replaced all air bags and Norgrens with the coach supported that way.
If a previous owner did not properly service the air system it is possible water could get in the Norgrens. Air system maintenance involves dryer replacement on a regular basis, draining all air tanks often and draining the water trap that catches condensate from the aux compressor.
Once a Norgren has moisture in it, the surface of the bore usually starts to corrode and the Norgren will no longer be leak free.
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in front steering compartment prob going thru there. Norgren filter. prob need to drain it more often just a little when you think of it. Wasn’t really sized to handle the extra large amount of air flow some aux put out and has no auto discharge. Mine has a small drain on bottom. Could use norgren to play with on projects—we build all kinds of off wall things—air operated christmas display for example–don’t ask? just goes with being busnuts… Bob
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Yep, if you add air in the steering compartment it comes back through the Norgren filter before heading to accessories.
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Is there any auto water expeller on the front like on a shop compresser? maybe a bendix air dryer with heater near the back for the engine compresser? got to be one or two air tanks somwhere!!
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Rick,
If the old Norgrens are still available I’ll take them. I’d love to take a set a part and see what they look like.
Thanks,
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Gil, as a “gear head” you will be impressed. Not with their complexity, but with their simplicity. I always marvel at good basic designs that work well. The Norgrens fit into that catagory.
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