[Jerry]

Total length 12 feet slope 55 inches blocks in between are 20 inches used the cut angle parts to fill in the slope make them as wide as you want , I made set for front and back ,front are 7 boards wide back are 10 boards wide 2x10s

[Bob]

GIl,

How many to you want? I can send you a 3 port and 5 port for your fun, e-mail and address and they’ll be on the way.

[Archived]

Gil Give me your address and I’ll mail them out. Rick

[Michael]

Rick,

It looks like your email is not publically available. Can you email me, trawlergil@gmail.com and I’ll send you my address.

Thanks!

[Dick]

Rick,

It looks like your email is not publically available. Can you email me, trawlergil@gmail.com and I’ll send you my address.

Thanks!

[Rick & Denise]

I also would like one of each send me a pair and ill send the postage back when i get your address mine is Pratts , 4020 n us hwy 17 ,, DeLand, fl .32720

[Alvie]

I’ll fix you up David, 3 port and 5 port coming your way.

[AL]

Thanks just want to rebuild to see how they tick

[Archived]

For those who are “hands on” and want to rebuild Norgren valves it is easy to do. Norgren sells the spools which is an assembly of the spool and all the O rings and lubricant. I presume you can by your own O rings and restore the valve to working order also.

But I did that on two previous occasions and while it is personally satisfying there are some potential problems. First, the end caps are held in place with steel screws. A steel screw going into an aluminum body tends to corrode and screw removal requires considerable care or the head of the screw will break off creating a problem if you intend to reuse the valve. But assuming you can disassemble the valve end caps from the body the bore of the valve has to be perfect. If it has ever had any moisture and corrosion it may be leak free for a while after rebuilding but its service life has been compromised.

If you do successfully rebuild the valve which is a relatively simple job you need to bench test it, and verify it is performing as intended and is absolutely leak free. In this case leak free means not a single bubble of air escapes from the valve. I made a rig of tubes and fittings that I could connect to a completed valve (even new ones) to verify they were leak free. There is nothing more frustrating than replacing Norgren valves and then finding out the coach is leaning after a day or two.

Now that I am an old fart like Tom I just buy new valves. Although I can say I did get a lot of satisfaction successfully rebuilding the ones on the coach and ending up with a coach that didn’t lean even in cold weather.

[JIM]

Kinda changing the subject (and by the way nice looking ramps) after having spent thousands with Prevost and my 1991 with air leaks and them changing goodies out gonna start do things myself. Since it cooled down she got the leans again. Built 50’x60’bus barn for this puppy and looking for air over Hydraulic jack to get her up in the air. What do you guys use and where did you buy it. Gonna build the stands to hold up after I get it in the air.

[Archived]

Glen.

Do not rely on any hydraulic jack to support the coach. To raise the coach or an axle they are fine, but are subject to sudden failure so before you get under the coach make sure the chassis is supported at the chassis support points with something solid, capable of supporting the weight.

This is what I use. I raise the bus fully using the level low and the air bags. Then I put these beneath the support points.

I had two runs of these stands made and a lot of guys have them. They are not being made any more, but they are easily duplicated. These are 4 X 4 steel tube, 3/16 thickness. The base is around 8 X 8 and the top cap is a flat 4 X 4 plate. The handle makes it easy to carry and slide in or out.

They could just as easily be made from schedule 40 pipe of 3 or 4″ nominal size with a heavy top and bottom plate. The height varies slightly from coach model to coach model so you need to raise the coach up and measure. Once they are in place you can dump air in the suspension and jack up the axles to pull wheels or do anything you need to do.

[Bob]

Thanks Jon.

I have 4″ .188 wall out my shop in west Texas. Thought I would make some that were adjustable with pins to raise or lower to any height. What is the overall height of your stands and with bus up to top of bags is it enough to slide under with creeper and work? Would love to have the jacks that prevost uses. Big bucks. I haven’t performed any work on my coach but fixing to start. I’m tired of taking to shop and having the same problem on the way home or after the fact. Have spent about big bucks at prevost and at 2 different prevost locations just on this air problem. Since cool weather has hit, down overnight again. Gave them a open checkbook to find and fix. No go. Do you ever use a air over hydraulic jack and what kind?

ps

If any of you folks want some stands just hollar and I will try and get some built for you.

[Archived]

I really think once you get you head around the air system you will understand it. The article section above will help you greatly. Dawn dish soap mixed up with water in a spray bottle shows lots of air bubble. look at those push in fittings– if they leak trash them if they don’t— trash them— flood the air bags all–over look for bubbles. leveling valves.. tanks around straps.. tank drains are bad about just starting to leak with age. Lots of this stuff is cheap… New air line buy it by the roll get you compression fittings. To big get your go for to wrench for you. mirror on a stick look at the pic I posted of where the norgren bank is on the wall of the rear luggage bay. there are some inside the frame above rear end also that control tag bags and lift etc. Leveling valves in front of the mud flaps in front of duals. Take duals off and front flaps in front of them and it will reviel allot of potential leak areas Leveling valves bags and access to norgen bank from side. If your skinny enough….FWIW If a old Sideboomer can do it you should be able too……

[glen]

Glen, I can guess at what heights you need but too many factors influence the exact height. Best bet is to raise it up and measure from the support points to the floor. Adjustable isn’t practical unless you want to do a lot of jacking to get the chassis higher than the air bags will do.

With the bus raised fully you can roll under on a creeper. All work is within the wheel area and you can sit up in there once under the coach. I did all my work that way for 10 years when we lived in NY. Look at the photos Tom posted regarding his suspension work and you will see that is what he does also.

I have taken buses down to the bone with them up on stands. No doubt a pit is great, but if you have no pit you can still do virtually anything.

[Archived]

Thanks Bob, Jon. Raised coach this afternoon and looked like about 13″ from floor to jack points best I could tell. Looking right now at a good air over hydraulic jack and get that puppy up another 6″, build jack stands and get the spray bottle out. Good winter project. Even though down here by the Texas Coast, we use our bus all the time. Thanks again Guys!