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Webasto nozzle
Where can I buy a new Danfoss nozzle for my Webasto – it is a 2020 model and my research shows a 470716 NOZZLE (0.65 GPH 80 H). I tried ordering one from a place called Bus Service on the web on 22 Sep, but have not seen it yet, and when inquire by email no response, call the listed phone number and it is not in service. I’m about to file a Paypal dispute.
I found some brand X – Delevan, and others but am reluctant to buy other than genuine. Any advice would be appreciated.
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20 Replies
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My friend Roger Berke owns the parts store Tom has a link to. He also is the Aqua Hot forum man too. He can answer just about any Webasto/Aqua Hot question one might have via the forum. The parts store has almost all Webasto/Aqua Hot parts plus some more parts that anyone might want.
I just clicked the link and found the store closed for vacation. I received an email from Roger stating the store will be open starting next week, ie. Monday, 10/19.
Art Twaddell, a forum member, is an excellent service person with some parts. He is most helpful. I have some parts for Webasto 2010s. Neither of us have the vast assortment that Roger has. But you can talk to either of us while Roger only communicates via the forum. He would be on the phone nearly 24/7 if he took calls.
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pm art tawdell he is a service person for webasto 8057129449 phone just sent me a nozzle
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John Carrillo has whatever you need and has been working on these systems for years. He used to service our coach at FMCA rallies for years.
970-518-3085
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Rudy thanks for guiding my friend to get his aura hot started
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Dan, You are most welcome. Happy to help.
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Well I got a hold of a new nozzle. Took the unit apart per some kindly provided phone instructions and found the sensor window 95% covered with soot. Cleaned every up and put it all back together. The unit fired right up then in about 30 seconds the pipes started banging. I then noticed the water pump was not turning. Banging must be coolant boiling in the unit due to lack of water flow. Now that I think back that was the original failure mode, banging shortly after unit was started, then it shut off, probably because reaches some temp/overtemp cut out point.
So next step, to do some diagnostics, I start to take off the pretty stainless steel pump cover that Liberty so kindly put there to make it harder to get to the pump and the outboard two screws come right out. The one on the back inside corner is a frozen and stripped Phillips fastener. Did you know the Phillips head screw was invented for the auto industry so that the driver would cam out of the faster and prevent assembly line workers from overtightening screws and breaking them? But I digress . . . Since it is back in a hole where I can’t see it, I decide to wait until tomorrow in the daylight in which I still won’t be able to see it, but at least I won’t anger the neighbors when I fire up the die grinder and carbide ball bit and grind the head off the screw by feel. I should have become a dentist rather than a doctor, then I could do things like this looking in a little mirror.
So bottom line my question, since I don’t have a wiring diagram, what suggestions do you have for easy to get to electrical diagnostic points for no Webasto water pump function. Fuses, relays, control modules? My plan was to get to the plug (if there was one under that infernal cover) and see if there was 12V there coming to the motor, indicating failed pump motor, and or try 12V straight to the motor and see if the pump starts up.
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David:
I don’t have a answer for you, but want to thank you for you detailed description of your troubleshooting. It is definitely going to help if/when I start having issues with my unit.
Chuck
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David, On all Webasto Heat Exchanger installations, the Control Unit (brain box) that is mounted on the side of the burner controls the Webasto circulation pump. This pump is mounted very close to the burner. I have not seen this pump mounted remotely.
The “A” plug, the two wire plug on one end of the control unit is the power source to the pump. The “A” plug is energized anytime the burner motor is running.
So, with the burner motor running, one of the two wires on the “A” plug will be energized. The other one is ground. By testing and finding power on one of the “A” plug wires equals bay pump.
Conversely, with the burner motor running, finding no power on either wire of the “A” plug equals bad Control Unit.
Hope this helps.
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Thanks Rudy, that was just the clue I was looking for. So the A connector voltage/current directly powers the water pump (mine is right there about a foot from the burner)? It does not activate a remote relay or other device?
Next question is if the control module is bad, where to buy?
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David, call me. 7 one 3. 8 one 8. 3234
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David, call me. 7 one 3. 8 one 8. 3234
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If you need a control box go to this site.
http://frerichselectronics.com/
I am sure Rudy can get you one or call this guy.
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Thanks to all. Talked to Rudy. If is box have sources now. Will get into it more this evening.
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The circulation pump is very possibly froze up…However all fuses for power are in the second bay…
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