[Corey]

Good catch Bill, I noticed the same thing.

George, Good Shot! Glad to see YOU’RE BAAACK!

[Archived]

Still in the “hobble” stage, but able to drive and back home in Fla. Looking forward to Fla rally season. Geo.

[Archived]

Thank you for the replys, I will have to check the inlet pipe size and see what room I have for the extra pump and accumulator tank. The internal seals have gone bad each time, three times in six months.

Thanks again,

Jim

[Archived]

Jim,

Something is causing the seals to fail and I agree with Jack in that if the supply side is restricted the pump may be developing a negative pressure on that side which could be damaging to seals not designed to work under negative pressure. I would surmise the failure is not caused by high pressure on the discharge side because the pump has an internal pressure switch which is going to limit idscharge pressure.

A back up pump and associated accumulator should be on all our coaches because a single pump failure is going to shut down the ability to draw water. We can get along with almost any other failure because we have alternate ways of getting power or pressure to the pneumatic system, but no alternative to the water pump as most coaches are designed. Each back up pump installation is going to be different because of work space or how the system is plumbed. Also I used a 120V pump because 12 and 24 volt power was not readily available, but your situation may be different.

One thing often overlooked is if you have an accumulator tank external to the pump make certain the bladder pressure is set correctly and it is funtioning properly. A bad accumulator tank can cause short cycling on pumps and that could be hard on them.

[Archived]

Sound good! See you next week!

[tom]

What are you smoking for the New Year Godfather?

I know your era Liberty didn’t come with a accumulater or backup water pump like a Marathon but your design putting the Electric junction box on the floor of the water bay?

Don’t know about that one.

Later

bv

[Tom]

Explain your back up water pump. I understand you have two cheap RV pumps, both running at the same time. the only way you know you need to visit Camping World to deal with a failure is when the second one fails because you don’t know when the first one quits. Or did I misunderstand how the Marathon pumps are set up?

You are correct in that the junction box should not be on the floor, but the cheap back up pump had about 10″ of wire so I took the easy way out. Probably makes little difference because if a pipe lets go it sprays water all over the bay, and it manages to soak all electrical connections regardless of where they are. I had a joint open up on a previous coach and the pump sprayed about 130 gallons of water all around the bay before the pump motor burned up.

[Tom]

Hey now boys, The Marathon pump(s) are the way to go.. There is a 110v pump and then a backup 12v pump. When the engine is running, it automaticaly switches from 110v to 12v. You also have the option to run just the 12v or just the 110v when camping.

And you Liberty boys need to change your diet if you need 40psi push your crap to that one, aluminum tank

[Archived]

Jon,

Thank you for the follow up and that is the course of action I am going to work on. There might be enough room under the stateroom sink for an accumulator (which looks like your install location).

Thanks,

Jim

PS: Maybe we are having problems with the pump seals because we don’t have the shiny copper pipes that Liberty’s have. Or it could be the lack of rose petals?

[Peter]

It must be the rose petals.

Clearly with the frequency of the seal failures it seems Headhunter would need to be involved. Unless there is something in your system contributing to the failures they would have an issue that they have to address. But for your peace of mind you should have some redundancy even if it is of limited performance so a water pump failure doesn’t mess up a trip.

[Archived]

Jon,

It seems there could be some other location for the accumulator tank rather than under the bathroom sink. Surely you did’nt have to move your towels and wash rags to an outside bay. Just wondering.

Bill S.

[Dick]

Not so God Father, my Marathon came with a Headhunter, so it would appear your facts are just a tad off.

[Corey]

Bill,

The location is under the sink in the cabinet across from the toilet. In a perfect world I would have located it in the bay directly beneath where it sits now, but I have no room at all in that bay.

I wanted as close to the flush valve as possible and that was the only spot available. We actually never see it because it is a 2 door sink cabinet and we only open the one to the right. We still have ample room for the stuff we keep under the sink.

I would never have required that accumulator if the other accumulator in the coach was located in the water bay and the main accumulator had a large diameter hose aimed directly at the flush valve. But it is buried somewhere I have yet to find too far away from the flush valve an apparently with a 1/2″ pipe so it will never deliver the needed water flow and pressure to the toilet. I know there is an accumulator because before I installed the one shown, with the pump off I could get water to run from the faucet in the kitchen sink for a couple of minutes before the pressure went to zero. At some point I have to find that accumulator.

[Archived]

Ah! A Liberty…doors behind doors, walls behind walls and stuff buried where only Liberty maybe knows. Geo.

[Archived]

When seal failures that frequent, you may want to check your fresh water tank for small debris, such as sand. The seals are either being cut by foreign debris or melting due wo cavitation, caused by an air leak. If you have another failure I would ask Headhunter to tell you why the seals failed so so can correct the real issue. They can look at the seals when they disassemble the pump to rebuild.