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Valve And Injector Service 60 Series
Royal XL Detroit 60
I look in the engine compartment and see half of my engine. The front half goes under a aluminum shielded material.
My question is can the valve cover be removed by removing what looks like an insulation barrier to the coach or does the closet have to be dissembled to allow servicing of the engine?
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22 Replies
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the H series can do overhead from paseriinger side I believe the xs have to rather slide engine back or go your closet
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Usually on an XL there is interior flooring that must come out in order to access the valve cover.
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I do not have a closet opening to get to the top of the engine. The floor would have to be torn out and rebuilt. Is there an advantage to doing valve work with the engine in place, or, can it be done just as effectively by sliding the engine out?
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If you can’t get to it from the closet/bdrm, they slide the motor partway out. Some additional labor. Check with American Fleet. Geo.
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Most converters have built the rear closet cabinetry and floor over the engine so with some disassembly thefloor can be removed.
Along with unscrewing the cabinet structure it might entail lifting the carpeting, but so far I have not heard anything that entails saber saws (sawzalls) or any destruction of the floor or closet interior, but I have heard the labor to open up the floor may run several hours because of all that has to be done to get to that point.
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We just had ours done at Pittsburgh power.
We have an access panel in the floor beside the bed.
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Thanks guys, good information. The question is, is one method better than the other? Pull the engine out or leave it in and go through the closet floor?
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I’m wondering the same thing as Roy is. In my discussions with American Fleet in Springfield, MO I got the impression they usually pull the engine cradle unless the tech can crawl into the engine bay and do his or her work. Pulling cradle eliminates need for tech to go in and out the coach.
A month ago I by chance visited with a retired career Detroit Diesel/Allison tech who retired a year ago from Inland Power in Butler/Milwaukee. I asked him about this S-60 procedure. He said pulling the engine cradle is straight forward, predictable, and makes the engine easy to work on.
I’ve read posts from Prevost owners who’ve done the procedure. Some pulled the engine, some went through the bedroom/closet.
Just keep in mind you have to pull all the stuff out of the closet and create room for the tech to work and set his tools somewhere.
We’re at 121,000 miles waiting for fuel mileage to start dropping off. I plan on having a Jake Brake installed during this procedure.
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When a previous owner had ours out, he had all the hoses replaced with high quality ones. The engine was detailed and a polished/chrome valve cover installed.
I’m sure the new hoses are a good thing.
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Dick: You don’t like your retarder? I’ve had both (one at a time) and, other than the need to change atf more frequently, I thought it was 6 of one and a half-dozen of the other.
BTW, BECAUSE of the lack of jake brake hardware under the valve cover, my valve cover came off for my top end adjustment service without removing the bedroom floor or sliding engine out.
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I had American Fleet do our Valve adjustment on our 07 marathon. They pulled the engine. As I recall, they weren’t comfortable with doing anything inside the coach. Upside was the replaced all the hoses and a few other things that I don’t recall while it was out. I was a bit concerned, but they do this all day everyday and got back in and drove it home with no issues since.
Bill
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Joel: I like the retarder, I use it all the time. But on long, steep grades the trans temp gets higher than Jon says it should be. So I thought having both would give me flexibility, redundancy, backup, and added capacity.
Those are all the excuses I am using to get the Jake brake added.
The real reason … I like the sound it makes.
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Let’s understand two things about my comments on a retarder.
First, if as a driver you want to use the retarder in such a way as to push it to its maximum temps it has been programmed to shut down or derate the retarder so it will not exceed the limit, which I think is 300 degrees.
But I know heat is the enemy of our drive train so I personally will manage my use of the retarder to limit the temperature to 230. That is an arbitrary choice based on the fact it is marked on the gauge, it is below a 250 degree limit for oil temp that was on my plane, and because keeping transmission fluid temps low it probably reduces potential damage to the Transynd.
So I adapted to a retarder equipped coach, having come from a Jake equipped one. First, I descend hills in the same gear I climbed the uphill portion. I use the retarder as required to keep the speed downhill below my target speed, and if the retarder was unable to keep speed from building I used the brakes to bring the coach speed to about 10 below my target speed. Then let the retarder do what it was supposed to while selecting a retarder setting that would keep my temp at or below my arbitrary 230 degrees.
I have easily descended long 6 to 8 percent grades in 4th gear which has a top speed at 2100 of 55 MPH. With the correct setting of the retarder force, usually the 2nd or 3rd position and occasional hard braking to get down to 45 MPH I easily stayed below my max temp. I am not intimidated by trucks following me and will not race downhill for anyone.
A jake as I had in a previous coach was not as effective as my retarder, but either one was very valuable on a coach.
1999 XLV X-6872, liberty #440 -
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Royal made it easier than most, to get to top of the engine, I did my own, open it up in Roswell NM. Replaced return fuel line half hour job to get down to the engine
Tradewinds Coach
Kyle Bennett (Service)
Brian Miller (Sales)
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