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New 50DN Alternator
Getting ready to install new air cooled 50 DN alternator , got rid of oil cooled one ,plug two holes and remove hoses ,one vent tube too compressor ,three in all , replace with 330 amp ,old one was 300 amp , and new updated regulator , and change fitting on compressor to a elbow instead of street tee ….
It is a direct replacement for the old one , bolt on and go it comes with new pulley………….
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19 Replies
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I put a seal in my 50DN last summer and the manufacturer of the seal told me that the 50 DN usually lasted 100K miles,I am interested on your experience with the air cooled alternator as that seems to be the next logical step.
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Peter
Do you have part numbers for the alternator and the voltage regulator? Would be willing to post them, thanks. Our coach will be ready for a repalcement alternator in the next couple of years just trying to be ready and proactive.
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Post some pictures Peter. I think it’s a great idea getting rid of the oil lines and having air cooled.
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t is the Penntex PX833 direct replacement for the DN 50 they sell a complete unit or the kit to convert your old Delco, look at their website it’s penntexusa.com for a list of dealers nearest you. Happy shopping, Bill
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I checked their site and the only Detroits are 60 series. Is there an issue with the 50N alternators on the 92 series also ? I had my floor up to rebuild the compressor and the alternator looks like new but I did see oil lines going to it.
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The 50DN used on the 8V92 is a gear driven model. According to the penntex web site it doesn’t appear they are offering that version. Elreg has been a good source for that alternator.
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Peter,
What did the PX-833 cost?
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Got it from Elreg it cost 15950 plus regulator 1290
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The 50DN on the 8V92 is gear driven and, I believe, it is oiled and drained internally within the engine. I sold my 1989 with 300,000 miles on it and the original alternator.
Not so on the S60. After about my third alternator issue at about 150,000, I put on the Penntex. It’s an easy conversion except for the weight of 100ish pounds and uses the original mounts, wiring, and voltage regulator.
It’s now been 20-30,000 miles and I’ve had an issue. Unsure of the cause, but I have been fighting the upper 2 mounting bolts of the alternator mounting bracket to engine (not alternator to bracket) shearing off. These should be checked regularly. I don’t know if the problem started with the old alternators or the Penntex. Pure speculation on my part, but the large oil return hose may brace the alternator somewhat and/or dampen vibration. The original bolts were 7/16. I currently have grade 8, 1/2″ and I was certain to make sure the last bolts installed had a smooth shank through the entire bracket as the old ones were shearing between the smooth shank portion and the threads at a point at the rear edge pf the bracket which I suspect was a high stress point. These last bolts have been in for about 10,000 miles and are good so far. I’ll advise if my fix fails but I’d check those bolts regularly, especially if you convert to Penntex.
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Thanks Joe,
I feel better now,,, my back was beginning to ache just thinking about leaning over the access portal to replace that alternator. I sure hope it lasts for that many miles,,,, we only have 155,000 right now.
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I strongly suggest you use two people for the actual removal/installation. I disconnected everything and then had my son help; then reconnected on my own. Took him about 10 minutes of help time but probably saved me a trip to back surgeon.
OOPS, you’re the 8V92…you’ll probably need a new engine before a new alternator!!! Above advice for Peter.
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I changed my 50DN by myself but I avoided the spinal issues with some prep work.
The key was in sliding the alternator as opposed to lifting it. I used a rolling cart and some pieces of wood that I lined up with the alternator and I slid the old one from its location. Then I reversed the procedure to slide the replacement. I can push and pull with out injuring myself. I got the alternator from the cardboard box and up to the level of the rolling cart by rolling it up inclines in stages. I follow the same techniques with batteries that make the alternator seem like a feather at 100 pounds or so compared to the 8D batteries at 173 pounds.
Whether I am breaking down my tires and wheels, remounting them, changing my CAC I avoid the super hero stuff I used to do when I was younger and dumber.
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“Whether I am breaking down my tires and wheels” … so its possible to take the wheels apart and remove the tires or am I reading too much into this?
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I break down my own wheels and tires because whatever pain I suffer throwing them around is significantly less than the pain of watching some high school dropout scratch up my polished wheels.
YMMV
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