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  • Marathon Auto Sewer Hose

    Posted by Archived on September 10, 2018 at 8:31 pm

    Should the day come that I have to replace the Marathon auto sewer hose, how the hell do you even get to it? It retracts up into it’s storage area, but I can’t see any access panel to replace just the hose. The hose itself doesn’t go all the way to the curb side where the auto drain is located, so the connection has to be mid coach from the driver side.

    Lesson learned, don’t be standing in front of the access door when you extend the hose, it’s hard on the ankle.foot-in-mouth

    Deleted User replied 7 years, 11 months ago 27 Members · 53 Replies
  • 53 Replies
  • Chad

    Member
    September 10, 2018 at 10:49 pm

    Yes Sir, that’s what 60 psi of air can do to your ankle.

    I can only recall 2 cases of hose replacement and in both cases it was failure of owners to follow sequence procedure hose to storage.

    So it functions correctly replace the gasket inside the hose end cap. Carry spares of both pieces at the end of hose. Sealing acts both ways. Both parts are plastic and do have a shelf life on pins and “C” clamp grip.

    If you see a limp hose ( get your mind out of the gutter ) tighten your clamps, check gasket in place and clean seal.

    Don’t forget to carry spares, last thing…. I’am sure another Marathon owner has mentioned the double click when lifting the drop door ?

    AL


    1984 96" with 8V92TA

    (remodeled Liberty Coach)

    Greenwood, MO
  • Ron

    Member
    September 11, 2018 at 12:02 am

    Tom,

    Actually it’s not as hard to replace as you would think. The connection is all the way on the Passenger side of the coach on in the water bay… where all the valves our on our Marathon. We had our changed out after our big trip as it was pretty well worn out and showing signs of failure / leaks. I watched a marathon monday with mal where the engineer guys said not to extend it all the way out with the air… they suggested just giving it one hit and then pulling it out manually as far as you need it… so that is what I do… after I had it replaced and before I saw that video I blew the cap of the end twice because it was working too well.

    Hope your enjoying the new coach

    Bill

  • Dick

    Member
    September 11, 2018 at 7:19 am

    The reason I asked is I had a pin hole about 1 foot from the end so I needed to cut off that portion, but these plastic hoses do wear out from use. Thanks for the tip Bill, I’ll do that going forward. Mine shot the end off as well from extending all the way out.

    Double click?

  • Jimmy

    Member
    September 11, 2018 at 9:05 am

    In order to change the hose, from the curbside, you’ll need to remove both the 110v and the12v water pumps. Then you can get to where the hose is clamped onto the sewer valve assembly. You attach a rope to the hose and then pull it thru to the drivers side until it comes completely out. You then use the rope to pull the new hose thru. Then hook it up, replace your water pumps and that’s it.

  • tom

    Member
    September 11, 2018 at 9:13 am

    Tom on mine no pumps had to be removed. I think it was a small access panel on the passenger side… and it was all right there… not sure where marathon sources their hose but it seems to be more robost than the typical stuff they added ends to both end and we were back in business that was going on 6 years ago with no issues… I used to give it three clicks to get it all the way out… so you would probably be fine with 2.

    Bill

  • Jimmy

    Member
    September 11, 2018 at 9:53 am

    Or if you’re a klutz like me, you go directly to Marathon. Joe at San Antonio quoted me $600 to change the sewer hose. I’ll be stopping on my trip south in the fall.

    I have a big gash which I keep repairing. However, I still have to pull it out and pack it away manually now.

  • Dick

    Member
    September 11, 2018 at 9:56 am

    A pin hole and you cut off the hose? You Should have just gone to HD and bought rutsoleum’s liquid sealant, sort of like flexseal. I just used it to seal a couple of holes on mine. Works great.

    I also only extract a small portion and then use a Rhino hose. That way, when some campground lawn maintenance guy steps on or weed whacks the hose, the Rhino is what gets damaged, thus saving a shitload of labor to replace Marathon hose.

  • Archived

    Member
    September 11, 2018 at 10:04 am

    Tom – TX Prevost … Great idea on using the supplemental hose. That’s what seemed to have happened to mine. Someone stepped on my hose and I have a 3″ split about 15 feet from the end. Constant patching last season.

    And since I park in the same place for 5-6 months, I’ll be following your advice and just shoot out the Marathon hose a bit and attached another. Great suggestion.

  • Corey

    Member
    September 11, 2018 at 10:19 am

    I assume from the comments on this thread there will be no future comments about some of the less desirable Liberty features from Marathon owners.

    It’s a freaking sewer hose, but it sounds like it was designed to be so complex it would impress the poor folks in an RV park. And despite this convoluted design and operating procedure there are no rose petals.

    I cannot wait for some Marathon owner to try to tell me how great his sewer hose is because he can make it work with his smart phone. We Liberty owners have our people hook up our sewer hose.

  • Archived

    Member
    September 11, 2018 at 10:35 am

    I avoid parking next to Marathons more than 10 yrs old…always end up helping them put the hose back in. It certainly falls into the unnecessary PITA category. Geo.

  • Archived

    Member
    September 11, 2018 at 11:21 am

    Jon … you expressed my thoughts exactly. I read that exchange with the various ways to replace the sewer house, special considerations to follow to keep it from being damaged, how to handle damage … and thought “Whew!!!!! Just three more reasons to have a Liberty!”

    Geo … Good tip. I’ll keep my eye out when I park and keep my distance. I know that many if not most of the Marathon owners are really nice people, so I’ll have to come up with good reasons why it seemed I parked up wind from them.

  • Tony

    Member
    September 11, 2018 at 11:32 am

    Oh, never mind………I was going to make a snide comment about the length of the electric cable, but no sense adding salt to the wounds being described here.

  • Archived

    Member
    September 11, 2018 at 1:26 pm

    Based on the other Prevost conversions I’ve checked out, the Marathon system seems to be the cleanest, simplest method of emptying the tanks. No muss, no fuss. And yes, it’s a good idea to tighten the clamp occasionally. It also reminds you if you might have forgotten to close the gray valve as it won’t retract if it’s left open.

    When I’m in the situation where the dump is a bit too far away, I do like others and only release the coach’s hose a few feet and use an extension for the rest of the run.

    I was told to use the air to release the hose to the desired length and not manually pull it through the door. Also, I hold the end cap handle when using the air to retract the hose so that it doesn’t scrape the ground.

    Al, great tip on carrying a spare gasket and cap. I’ll put that on my shopping list!

  • Brady

    Member
    September 11, 2018 at 4:25 pm

    Be careful those aluminum hockey tanks might start leaking

  • Archived

    Member
    September 11, 2018 at 5:40 pm

    Jon, no need….Jeff has done enough swearing about Marathon power cords. He could have almost bought his bus for all the extension cord he had to make. Geo.

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