-
Do I have a problem or is this normal?
-
I’d just replace the valve. No Harry, this valve has nothing to do with the jakes. Will look tomorrow and see if the jakes have a breaker and where. Might be simple. Did the shop not road check the coach?
-
Hi Glens, Yes the shop did say they fixed the Jake and performed test drives. All I know is it has not worked since I’ve had the coach. And thanks for checking on the breaker.
Harry
-
Do you know if they went under the valve covers for fix?
-
Yes, The invoice says “Quantity 10 Check Jacob Brake” & “Quantity 2 Gasket Rocker Cover”.
Harry
-
Harry, Had mine out Monday and checked my Jakes to see what it did and those puppies will drag you down from 65mph to around 15 or 20mph in less than a 1/4 mile on flat ground. It downshifting itself. Toogle (downshift) yourself and mucho better.
-
The shop did a test drive and I rode in the co-pilot chair. Heard the jake and felt it in the seat as that 2 cycle did its jake growl. Jake slowed the coach on a down grade. Valve covers were removed when working on the jake as I saw the 8V with the covers off.
-
Thank you very much Glens,
That’s what I always understood, that a Jake brake slows you down in a very obvious manner and with noise involved with it as well. I know all about a downshift. Any of us living in or driving in the mountains in any vehicle downshifts.
I also know what my coach feels like using a downshift to slow down. That’s how I knew from the beginning that the Jake didn’t work. And my coach feels the same today as it did the day I picked it up.
Thanks for staying on this with me Glens,
Harry
-
Maybe Harry isn’t pushing the right button.
-
Of course I’m pushing the right button… It flushes!
-
Just fooling Harry. My toggle switch has a picture of a man lying in the road with tire tracks up his butt!
-
The reason I am urging strongly you get these valve or regulator issues diagnosed and repaired or replaced is you cannot tolerate air loss or loose belts on a coach. Becoming a test pilot and putting the valve in a position it was not designed to be in is wishful thinking.
Chad, I did not mess with your bus picture, but I can. Would you like a new bus pictured?
-
Hi Fred, I somehow missed your post. You told me that at the seminar and joked you had more seat time in the coach than me.
Everybody knows Jeff wouldn’t say something is fixed that isn’t and that is not in dispute here. The question is, why is it not working now because it obviously isn’t working.
Both you and Glens have said you can’t miss the Jake is working between feeling it drag and the sound. I don’t feel nor hear any of that so something is wrong. The question is what? Many have told me things to do and I’ve done them. The Jake ain’t Jake-in!
Harry
-
Hi Jon, I just saw your post and I couldn’t agree with you more. It needs to be fixed or replaced so it operates as intended.
Harry
-
Here’s an update on mine in case it is useful to Harry or others. This photo shows the position where mine stops leaking air. In the closed position it leaks quite a bit. In the open position it sounds like it’s full open. The air leaks through the open “dump” port, which was easily confirmed by plugging it with a finger. The tensioners function properly, but only when the handle is in the position in the photo. With the valve in the closed position, there is some tension on the belts, but not full tension. Unless it failed at the end of my last drive though, it was at least enough to keep the belts on the pulleys.
Prevost shows a part number of 510222 for the valve with a price of $101.28, but none available. The manufacturer’s part number is opposite the handle, so I had to remove the valve to see it: B-43YF2-RD. Swagelok owns the Whitey brand now, so I ordered a new valve for $96.70. Same part number of B-43YF2-RD. The red handle is a special order item, so I just ordered the black.
When I removed the valve, I expected the handle to just be indexed wrong on the shaft, but that doesn’t appear to be the case. The orifices look to be properly aligned in the open and closed positions. I suspect there is some deteriorated rubber inside. I found some cutaway drawings of the valve, but figured I’d just replace it for now. I need to move on to rebuilding the fan belt tensioner, which has a small leak too. Once I’m up and running again, I’ll crack open the old valve and see what went wrong.
(Jon, I uploaded my old profile picture. I’ll let you know if it changes again.)
-
Good report Chad and it does point out while a center valve position may stop air from leaking it sounds like it has the potential to leak air if the reason for the valve leak in the first place is bad internals. You do not want air to leak from the belt tensioners while driving.
Let us know if your photo changes because only Tom and I can access that and I know we did not mess with it.
Jeff and Lindsay
91 Marathon XL
Log in to reply.