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DN50 replace
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Jeff, is your bed oriented “north/south” pointed towards the front of the coach? No access hatch under the carpet backer under the bed?
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John, The bed is cross ways (east-west)
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My Bed is east West also. I had 16.5″ and I got it done from the top.
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The Champ tips the scales at 105 lbs.
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My 12 Volt 50DN Negative Ground, 300 Amp Boat Anchor in all it’s Glory.
Jeff and Lindsay
91 Marathon XL -
Hmmm. OK. Thanks guys. I will remove the carpet between the drawers and bed and see what i find.
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I don’t see how it can be done from below. This access hatch makes it pretty easy. Bolts are right there, you can clean the area real good before you pull the alternator free, use the 2 strap method, I showed, as you will likely need to tilt one end or the other to pull it out. Stuff some rags in the gear drive end, and tape over the oil connection and there will be no mess. I moved the mattress out into the Galley and put cardboard down to place it once it comes out of the hole. Then put cardboard by yhe door so you can rest for going down the stairs. Once you get it up on the bed, two people can walk it out. From down below you can’t see if debris is falling into the Cam gear or if you are misaligned.
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From the top you can also do a nice job cleaning everything up. I had acorns, mouse dropping, stick, all kinds of stuff in between the Blower and the Valve cover running down both side. I used an air gun and blew out all the 30 years of accumulation.
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Jeff you need to take that front lower board off also. Once you remove the carpet and the lower board you will see the L shaped hatch. There are four or six #10-32 pan head screws holding it down. It’s heavy, have a place for that also on some cardboard when you lift it out.
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Here is the Hatch and cover stepped back a little. The Hatch is heavy it’s all steel and wood. In order to get the front panel off you might need to pull the moulding along the floor. It should be a wire chase cover. L shaped made from wood. That is what CC did.
Jeff and Lindsay
91 Marathon XL -
Ours hatch is two separate pieces that lock together when screwed in place.
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A couple more things I will add when it comes to removal. #1, the night before spray with Kroil or PB Blaster or some penetrating lubricant. #2 the next day, just crack the bolts, then tighten, do this a few times to get the bolt moving so you don’t break it off. I used a 3/4″ Box wrench and mine loosened up no problem, no need for an impact. #3 After you have all the bolts moving, go ahead and remove all bolts/nuts except the top 2, I had one at 12:00 and one next to it. #4 wrap the straps and support the alternator weight. I put a board across the hole. #5 slowly remove the top two bolts and if you have the alternator supported correctly the back will be lifted up slightly pushing the Alt drive gear away from the cam gear. If you had studs like mine the studs will keep the alternator from falling down in the front, up to the point you slide it back off the studs. At this point the gears are apart and no damage to the Cam gear can happen. #6 Take a rag and place it in the hole to keep debris out. #7 Put a rag in the gear end of the alternator. #8 using the 2 straps, Lift it out.
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Thanks Mike and John for the info about the access panels. I Was able to peel the carpet back enough to see the panel and it appears to be like Mike’s. I will dig into it further over the weekend. Thanks again for taking so much time to provide so much detail.
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No problem, reach out anytime. Let me know if you come across something unknown.
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Mike does the bus charge the chassis batteries and run ok ?? If so why are you dealing with that alternator, especially trying to remove it when it seems to be working. Is the house 12v batteries something that stopped working while you had it or did you buy it that way. I think the Vanners above the engine are 50 amps maybe those were upgraded to only 1 100 amp Vanner. You mentioned fuses have you checked to see if they are good? I have only one alternator and I have a 24 v. Cable running to 5 50amp Vanner in the house battery bay off of which a 12 v cable ties into my house batteries to charge them when the engine is running. Been that way since 1992.
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