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Bus Barns
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I was looking over some of the TGO homes for sale that had RV carports/garages and it seemed like the “Large” size was 53 feet long.
By the time you put a 45 foot bus with a tow bar attached to the back inside of it, it seems like you would only have 3 feet or so on either end. The passenger side mirror would eat up another foot of that, possibly.
I’m thinking a 60 foot long RV garage is what I need to shoot for at a minimum.
Rollup garage door 14 feet high and 12 foot wide, with 14 foot wide better (much better?)?
Also, if drive through is not possible, a pull in on the left side of the house so that the bus door opens toward the house would be best. I believe it is easier to drive in to the garage and back out than to back in and drive out.
Opinions?
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Les,
I believe it’s easier to back into and pull out of a tight garage, especially if it’s not a straight in shot.
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Built ours 50’x 100′ but just enclosed 60′ of the building. Use other 40′ under roof for tractors, farm implements and hay. Had the guys install doors where I can come in on 50′ side or 60′. I can tell you even with my 40′ long coach the 60′ long opening gives you a lot more room around ends. Figured in the future will go to 45′ coach and it will be needed.
TxPrevost did you build that barn/apartment? I fixing to build something on Lake LBJ here outside Austin Texas and that would fit. Wanna sell your plans? LOL.
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No garage is big enough. My garage was perfect for our 40 foot coach. Not so good for the 45 foot coach.
I have a challenge entering the garage, but other than that all I can say is make it easy on yourself if you have the choice. Build it bigger than you need, make the door opening at least 14 X 14, do not skimp on floor thickness, have full hookups, heat it if you live in the cold climate, and insulate it well.
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Les they will build you a longer garage if you want, they only ask for tons of money now that the economy seems to be coming back in here. We are running out of houses for sale so building one would be your best bet.
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I did mine in 2010 and it is a 30 x 60 with 16 foot sidewalls and a 14 x 14 door. I wouldn’t even think of doing the door smaller. Give yourself a break and make it easier to get in and out. Mirrors are expensive, as well as everything else on a Prevost.
I don’t have water in it because of the distance from my house and where everything else already had been built. My other garage and the existing septic stuff made it an issue.
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I’m wondering what the floor thickness should be on a bus barn. With the coaches upwards of 30 ton just how thick should the concrete be?
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Mine is 7 to 8 inches.
My driveway is the same. When we spread the weight out on our tires it is not so bad, but I will often support all 53,000# on four supports so I have a lot of weight concentrated on four spots on the garage floor.
If you don’t have a lot of thickness the alternative is to spread out the weight if you are going to support the chassis on stands by placing a hardwood plank beneath the stands.
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Concrete thickness on ours is 6 inch plus on apron, parking floor was 8 inch. Our garage doors were custom at 12 Ft 6 inch. This was done to allow bus mirror room and insulation of personal access door in each stall. The exception was stall #1 has access door around the corner rather then front facing.
As for stall length we have 60 ft inside header to header measure. This is ideal use of space allowing move around room in the bldg. with bus inside, room for storage, small work bench.
This thread has been stirring the pot on bus barns. Lots of ideas but I think if you’re thinking of bldg. and you own a 45 foot bus, 60 feet long would be perfect length, 14 ft by 14 ft insulated overhead door , side door. heating and A/C.
I don’t know about a pit cost added to build, but sure would be something to think about bulding from scratch.
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Great thread on bus barns from those that own one or plan on building their own individual bus barn. I would appreciate some input from the bus owners that rent. If your renting how far away is your bus stored? What do you pay for indoor storage? What do you like most where you store your bus and what do you like the least. What amenities would you like within your unit and on the property?
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Below is a picture of mine. It is 70′ wide with one section 70′ deep by 35′ wide and the other 60′ deep by 35′ wide. It has 24′ wide by 14′ tall insulated overhead doors with electric openers.
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Sorry about sending such a large picture. Sent it from photo bucket. Not sure what I did wrong.
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Mark,
We have a rental (13×50) that we have used for 7 yrs. which includes a 30 amp connection.
It does not have water and sewer in the garage but has water on the property.
The property is gated, camera’d and has a manager M-F 9-4PM.
There are about 100 garages in the complex.
MM.
(on edit) I tried to post a couple of pics of our storage facility following the ‘how to post pictures’ to the letter.
They will not show up.
I think it has something to do with my aging Apple as it has become quirky on doing some things.
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MM,
You have a Bus now, your allowed across the street. We have air cond.
Later
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Mark,
We live in Tyler, Tx and our storage unit was about 30 minutes from us. It has been 4 years since we rented a storage unit for our Intrigue/U320. The facility is similiar to the one that is described in Kansas City, but without climate control. It did have an exhaust at the opposit end from the door. Each coach/motorhome had it’s own private garage. They where 60 feet long, but not wide enough to put out the slides. The units are insulated and you had the option of using 50amp, 30amp, or 110 volts. No water in the storage, but outside of the building there was water about every fourth unit. The building was surrounded by a 8 foot security fence with barbed wire on top. Outside of the fence was 10 spaces to campr with full hook-ups. As you pulled off of the street was a dump station. The charge per year was $2500.
Reese
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