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tag brake froze
Posted by Bob on September 26, 2012 at 4:24 pmMy shoes have frozen to disc. Been sitting 12-18 months during rebuild. Surface rust visible.What I have tried. Big 6 ft bar. removed air chamber/actuwaiter complete. Backed off brake slack adjuster. penertrating oil. Bad words– walking away. Put back together applied service brakes several times. caged parking brakes. Verified parts and instalation. Removed evertyhing(ser/pb) actuwaiter still no turn. Surface rust easily comes off with light sanding. Front not involved only Tag. 98 45 XLE. Any Ideas out there before I toast $500 worth of almost new shoes. Both sides on Tags. Weird–Inside shop! Bob
Archived replied 14 years, 1 month ago 4 Members · 7 Replies -
7 Replies
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I would be thinking to re-check what I think I did. It really sounds like your missing something to me. You say that the shoes are almost new? Just doesn’t seem that they would rust up that quick. Maybe sitting out in a pasture with the wheels off and the bus on the ground, I could believe it then but in a shop?
Wished I was there with another set of eyes. Just hope you don’t ruin the shoes and then…..opps! found out why.
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Exposed all the way down to the ball socket on the actuwaiting arm. I think the problem is I left them(parking brake) caged. Let moisture get between the two; even though one would think that would be no problem. Fronts are basic same system and no problem with them! I had Drive Axle caged also; and no problem there. I needed to move bus around without drive train in. Yes I did block and use safety times 3X. It has been on stands for a year. About ready to put tires back on. Must have this problem fixed first. Bob
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I’ve had both Meritor and Bremse Knorr and withiout getting under the coaches to look I seem to recall that both types would allow me to use a drift pin on the steel backing plate to give them a good whack with a hammer. That presumes the spring brake is caged and the caliper is backed off.
I don’t remember what pads cost but $500 seems high.
I’m shooting from the lip here because I am not at home and can’t go in the pit to get a good look at my brakes.
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Knoor-Bremse: From other board; un less I get very lucky they will have to be disassembled. That came from fleet owner who said that take them apart every year to lube and reseal. By the way the bus is wheels off on stands now so I can put this part on slow mode while I set engine trans in. Maybe they will just start working LOL. Anyone have manual on them? Bob
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Bob,
Go here http://prevostparts.volvo.com/technicalpublications/en/wiring.asp and you will find access through that page to all the supplier documents for your coach. Look in the lower left corner after you go to “technical manuals” and you will find listings of suppliers manuals.
I don’t believe you can take the whole caliper out unless the pads come with it so you may have to break the caliper in half. The caliper bolts are torqued to around 450 ft/lbs and the bolts are a one time use and must be discarded once removed.
If it was me I would leave that issue to dead last and once the coach is powered up try to break it free with the engine power. Usually rocking it back an inch is all it takes to free a sticking brake.
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I agree with Jon. Usually, all it takes is a nudge forward or backwards to break it loose. The only other thing would be if something is wrong with the install, but you indicated you checked all that so I would do what Jon suggested. Good Luck.
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Prevost parts $227 per wheel. plus. Local part # Kit 15625PM $302 for both sides. Going to wait but have option in hand. Odd he had another guy with same problem in just before me. I was actually able to help him to correct tract by the #’s I had brought with me. He had a front froze and was unable to move. Still haven’t found a grease zert others have mentioned. The other guys was on a 2000 Marathon(sp) and set up overnite. Going to prevost site next. For some reason my manual only list pads at end and not calip. Thanks everyone. I should know all the insides of this coach when finished. Bob
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