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  • Headhunter Tank Sentry

    Posted by Larry & Diane on October 30, 2013 at 9:41 am

    HeadHunter Tank Sentry.

    Our Black Water Tank Sentry has gone out and the only one I could find online was $590 !! Yikes !!

    Does anyone have a cheaper source for this one ?

    It is a Headhunter Tank Sentry, SYM 23QR.

    I have a picture but for some strange reason I cannot post pictures on PC I have done everything I know to do to post and all I get is an x in a little box.

    Appreciate any help.

    Thanks….Diane

    Archived replied 12 years, 10 months ago 6 Members · 10 Replies
  • 10 Replies
  • Larry

    Member
    October 30, 2013 at 11:37 am

    Send me the picture Diane, I’ll put it in your post unless there is a file issue.

  • Sammy

    Member
    October 30, 2013 at 11:55 am

    Diane,

    Do you know it has failed? When you press the little reset button do you hear the internal buzz?

    I have no knowledge of what they are internally but I believe they are measuring the volume based on the head pressure exerted on the tube that goes into the tank. For whatever reason that needs to be calibrated on occasion, but first the tube connection at the rear of the headhunter black box needs to be air tight. If it leaks at that connection you will never get a good reading.

    End of blather.

  • Larry

    Member
    October 30, 2013 at 12:07 pm

    Jon…

    Couldn’t get it to reset and a tech said it was bad… he swapped it with the grey tank sensor and then that one didn’t work? Hopefully he did it right?

    Thanks,

    Diane

  • Larry & Diane

    Member
    October 30, 2013 at 9:03 pm

    If you swapped it and it did not work, then the issue may be in the coach or where ever your Headhunter LED panel is as it is what sources the voltage to the sensor and reads the output. At the back of the LED panel there is a molex connector, you can disconnect it and swap it with the one meter that is working (in your case you said you used the grey water sensor). The sensor should power on and buzz (i.e. I believe it asserts pressure on the line and reads the pressure), and if there is water in the tank and it is calabraited properly you will get the LEDs to light on the grey panel (note: this can take up to a minute sometimes when the panel has just been powered on).

    If swapping the LED panel resolves your issue, check the panel that is not working. It is possible that the power or ground wire has come lose at the bottom of the LED panel for that circuit (i.e. there is a set of small set screws that the wires connect to, probe them to see if there is voltage, etc. , same goes for at the molex connector at the panel, as well as the molex connector at the sensor in the bay).

    When I have these kind of issues, one of the first things I do is disconnect the circuit and use a toner or contunity tester to check the wire(s) from end to end.

  • Michael

    Member
    October 30, 2013 at 9:17 pm

    mbrund,

    Thanks for your reply… I guess I didn’t make it clear but he swapped the Black Water Sensor to the Grey Water and it didn’t work there either and the Grey Water sensor did work on the Back Water location so we assumed that the Balck Water Sensor was bad. The red lights are lit to the full mark all the time but only on the Black Water Sensor.

    Your information as very informative and I thank you for that.

    Diane

  • Larry & Diane

    Member
    October 30, 2013 at 9:33 pm

    OK, sounds like a bad sensor. I dont have one to disassemble, but I would think they could be repaired. If the one you have has an LED on the bottom of it and it lights either green or orange, its possible that all thats wrong with it is the pressure pump has gone bad.

    I have not spoken to Headhunter, but do they sell refurbed units or repair ones that go bad?

    If they dont repair them and you have to purchase a new one let me know, I may be willing to take a crack at fixing the one thats now working.

  • Mark

    Member
    October 30, 2013 at 9:58 pm

    Michael… Again thanks so much for your input I really appreciate it.

    I will call Headhunter tomorrow and see what they say and get back with you.

    I will also check out the wiring as you suggested… although he may have done that but I’m not sure.

    I will let you know the outcome.

    Thanks, Diane

  • Larry & Diane

    Member
    October 31, 2013 at 7:16 am

    Post the answer, Diane.

    A lot of us have those sensors and lately they have gotten a bad rap because someone posted a while back they are unreliable and pricey to repair. It would be good to update that information.

  • Archived

    Member
    October 31, 2013 at 8:39 am

    I will Jon…

    Can’t agree that they’re unreliable… dang… ours are 15 years old… first problem !! Something that vibrates around for over 120K miles seems pretty hardy to me..

    Diane

  • Archived

    Member
    November 1, 2013 at 8:49 pm

    I have taken one apart. There is a small motor to blow air, a few hose connections, and a whole section sealed in black. Mine would run on fast when the white button was pushed and not shut off. Not likely to be fixable. Headhunter did not offer any repair or even a core exchange option. They have a new model for sale at big bucks. I know- bought two this summer, installed and calibrated myself. Should be good for another 7-10 years. As previous posts have stated, before assuming the sending units are bad, be sure to check the integrity of all the hose connections paying close attention to the o-rings in the push on fittings. Headhunter sells a nice pressure test kit if you really want to get involved in DIYSelf.

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