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Lighted switch buttons
On one panel buttons do not illuminate when “Panel Light” button is pushed. Suspect problem with button panel circuit board.
When attempting to service water tank fresh water drain opens when tank fill button is pushed. Drain can only be closed by the button on inside on panel over right windshield.
Any ideas?
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10 Replies
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Start with giving us info on the model/year/converter. Photos sometimes help, too.
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Sorry about that. It’s a 1999 Country Coach XLV 25th Anniversary Edition. CCI S/N 60396.
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are you referring to a Sun Mullion switch? Where is this panel located?
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The lighted [yellow-off, green-on] system control buttons. This is the button group located in the sewage-gray water dump bay.
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Swing open the ECC, locate the daughter board for that light panel and push/test the tiny buttons to see if they work. Assuming the fuses on the front are all OK.
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I’ll get back to the problem today I hope. The problem is not time critical in that I can manually fill the tank and city water hook up to the system works OK. The only problem is with the auto-fill function. I think first I’ll pull and reset the daughter card. “Reseating a cannon plug”, as well as “malatizing a relay” and “reracking the radio”, has solved a lot of problems. May work here.
Info research indicates that card #7 from the coach left is the one. Can anyone confirm?
While on the subject, I think a little Dow Corning DC-4 or Lubriplate white lithium on the daughter card contacts would eliminate some, if not all, dirty contact problems.
Whadda ya think?
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Sounds like some of the plugs that go on the back of that circut board in that bay may have been swaped. Has anyone every had the panel off in that bay or done any work on anything in that bay.
Do the other switches do what they are supposed to do. Like does the water pump switch turn on the water pump and the dump valve switches work their respective devices.
I will look at mine in a little bit and see which control card in the ECC cabinet controls those function.
Tom is refering to some very small white buttons that are on the back of some of the cards in the ECC cabinet.
Not all cards have these buttons on them so you may not see any on card #7.
Will get back to you in a bit.
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Checked out the plugs and compared with another like coach. They are like they are supposed to be with no signs of tampering.
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The control card in my CC pictoral drawings says it is in slot 7 but in the wiring diagrams it says slot 8. The controll card for the Fresh Water Fill (fuse 4th from top), Fresh Water Pump (third from top) and Fresh Water Drain (2nd from top).
This card does not have any manual reset switches on it.
They should all be 71/2 amp ATC type fuses.
The switch panel mounted in your bay with the tank dump valves is tied to the card in slot 7 or 8 which ever slot the H20 card is in. Get some one to go to one of the water pump switches inside the coach and get them to push it while you look at the cards in the ECC cabinet to verify which card it actually is.
Another thing you might do is push the Domestic Battery Disconnect switch and push it agin in about 15 seconds.(This will disconnect all 12 volt power in the coach. Anything useing 12v for memory will be lost (clocks etc.)
It is very strange that pushing one of the switches actually operates another function other than what is indicated on the switch itself.
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I haven’t had time to get back to the problem yet, but this info tells me what I wanted to know. The problem is that the fresh water drain opens when I push the fresh water fill button on the panel in the bay. I think the fresh water drain also opens when I push the water pump button. If all of these functions are on the same card, we have a common denominator I think. Once the fresh water drain valve opens the only way that I have found to close it is to use the fresh water drain button on the panel inside the bus over the right windshield. Possibly the problem can be corrected by reseating the card and if not possibly by replacing the card. If there is a connection problem of possibly losing a ground maybe on one of the card contacts then maybe the fresh water fill switch on the card is going to ground through the fresh water drain switch and causing both valves to open. Only a theory and if I haven’t confused you, I think I may have confused myself. This is why I think reseating the card might correct the problem. I’ll try it when I have time to do it. Possibly this week-end. If it works, I’m going to reseat all of the cards and protect the contacts with a little Lubriplate white grease for preventative measures. Thanks for your help and does this sound reasonable to you?
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