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DN50 voltage regulator 12v
Hi Group,
My analog volt meter (overhead driver left) is showing 14+ volts this run.
I believe it is a replacement …”Transpo- cn D698-1563-12v” .
4 terminal, adj.What do I replace it with in 2017 terms. Its for my AGM 5 Lifeline 8N house bank.
I will admit that the bank had a very nice charge after the 4 hr run.
TNX….Jonathan
1996/7 XL40 Royale #201 -
15 Replies
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I believe that’s high for float voltage on Lifeline’s. However, my analog voltmeters do read a little high…first thing I would do is confirm with a second tester. My voltage regulator is adjustable although I believe you can buy a 3-stage voltage regulator for the 50DN which would be ideal.
1999 XLV X-6872, liberty #440 -
Why do you want to replace it?
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Hi Dick
I thought it was running hot at 14+ volts this last run. I dont want to cook the Lifeline AGMs. I know I have some problems with my inverters and will have the old freedom 25s taken out.
I will meter at the regulator and see what those readings are.
But if someone knows what a replacement would be I would like to know.
Again TNX you guys for your response.
Jonathan
96/7 XL40 Royale #201 -
Tnx Joel,
That would be Ideal!!
Jonathan
96/7 XL40 Royale #201 -
So … are you looking to replace the volt meter gauge or the voltage regulator?
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http://www.balmar.net/multi-stage-regulators/
The MC-614
I put one of these on my 99 in July.
It has all you need and with a digital readout.
Also a programing paramater for LifeLine batteries.
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Victron Battery Monitor with iPhone App for a new gauge.
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There was a thread a while back that talked about the voltage being too High for the house batteries while driving. An EE chimed in and said it was not really an issue unless it was being driven like an entertainer coach. Switching drivers and being run around the clock. I think He said that CC was the only converter that had addressed this issue. Don / AKA Lonestarace was telling Me that You could place a battery isolation block and get a half of an amp natural drop in the voltage. Which would bring it down to a more comfortable float voltage level. Maybe Don will chime in with accurate details ?
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Your house alternator setting is going to determine if the house batteries are being over, under or correctly charged.
Even if the alternator has a “smart” voltage regulator set for AGM batteries the problem is charging voltage is temperature dependent so even with that feature they still might not be properly charged. A typical Lifeline battery charging voltage is 14.3 volts for absorption but that is at 70 degrees and 30 degrees temperature swing in either direction results in a swing in either direction of the voltage by as much as 1/2 volt.
My point is simple. Most charging currents from alternators are set lower than the absorption voltage at 70 degrees so at higher ambient temps the batteries are not over charged. They are also not fully charged either in most cases so that is where the inverters come into play because when shore or generator power is available the inverters are insuring a full charge and then go to float.
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This info is for buses like mine and Rocky’s. We have 2 alternators that charge/power 2 separate electrical systems.
My previous coaches had a battery isolator located inline/between the alternator and both the house and chassis batteries. There was a 1/2 volt drop/difference from the input and output of the isolator.
My current bus does NOT have a battery isolator between the house alternator and the house batteries. But maybe it should? And here’s why. My house batteries on a hot summer day in TX after 8 house of driving are getting 13.9 volts and roughly 0 amps from the house alternator. 13.9 volts IMO is too high under these conditions.
Now, if I did install a battery isolator like came stock on my previous coaches, it would knock the input voltage to my house batteries down from 13.9 volts to 13.4 volts, which IMO is better than 13.9 volts. It’s either that or an adjustable voltage regulator.
I’m unable to charge my batteries perfectly under all conditions. If I had a choice, I would prefer to under charge them, not over charge them.
Another benefit to installing a battery isolator is to power both battery banks with 1 alternator if an alternator failed. If either one of my alternators was to fail, I could charge/power both battery banks from the good remaining alternator until I could fix it from the second output of the isolator. The required cabling could be pre-installed unconnected nearby just in case.
http://texasindustrialelectric.com/battery_isolators.asp
One last thing. Did you know that you can charge/maintain ALL of your 12v chassis batteries buy charging just 1 of them with a 12 volt charger or alternator. You don’t have to have a 24v charging source. It’s not the ideal way to charge them, but it will work. We’ve all know 1 bad battery will bring them all down, the inverse is true too.
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JON: I believe the Balmar regulator does have temperature sensing.
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Joel,
If it senses temperature at the batteries that resolves the charging voltage issue, but having come from western NY where in one day we could start out with sub zero temps, and by that afternoon we were in the 80’s you can imagine what kind of swing the batteries called for in terms of charging voltage.
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The Balmar does have an option for temp sensing direct to the batteries.
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Buddy, Rocky, Jon, Don
As I always do I have made notes and links, I thank you all for the information you share. I hope to meet you all at one or 2 of the get togethers.
I have met a few ColoradoBus, Chip and Pam out of VA, and I find its great sharing info.Jonathan
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Johnathon,
That is a Pretty Bus ! I noticed that the 2 rubber bumper pads have been removed. It is a nice clean look. I had mine off when polishing the bumper and thought about leaving them off. I had such a different finish underneath of mine that I decided to put them back. Your tag line reminds Me of a saying a friend of mine has. ” Just another day in paradise ” I look forward to meeting Y’all as well.
Best wishes and safe travels !
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