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Let’s talk Marathon!!!
Thankfully, the crisis has ended. My entire dash was dead…now it’s working again!
The CB2 breaker was tripped…..and that, after checking in that compartment a dozen times by 3 or four different people.
So…just remember if your dash goes dead, head back to the start-battery compartment…along the top of the compartment there is a row of red-buttons….the CB2 was marked as 12V and was tripped.
Me, the Prevost shop in Coburg, and Marathon, all had spent hours looking for the problem. They ordered an instrument cluster overnight from New Jersey….still the same…dead as a brick. All along, that simple little breaker was the problem….
Let me put in a word for Marathon Coach in Coburg, OR. I just can’t say enough good about them. Everyone, and I mean EVERYONE was terrific. They are courteous, very deferential to their customers and make every effort to fix whatever you task them with. At times there were 3 or 4 guys working on our coach at one time..several operations being conducted simultaneously.
The whole facility has the air of quiet efficiency– calm, clean, focused, orderly, methodical. A tour of the assembly area will show cabinet building and finish work at an extrodinary level! Many, many of the employees have been there for 20 years and longer. Rob, who is in sales, sold my coach originally…I met a fellow in the plant that remembered my coach and had worked on it as it was built 17 years ago.
One last word…about the elusive electical problem….they finally found it…corrected in exactly half a second…then proceeded to write off all the labor, the shipping, etc. associated with the multi-day search. I could ask for no better treatment for a difficult quarry. I’m a satisfied Marathon customer! ty
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15 Replies
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Only being a Marathon owner for two months, your story mirrors my experience with Marathon in Florida. My experiences so far have been very good.
I’m taking the bus in next week for some interior modifications and am looking forward to seeing the results.
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The Marathon guys in Coburg are great. One of my techlink light output nodes lost its ID on our last trip. They reprogrammed/reinitialized the network even though it is 18 year old technology. It took two guys about two hours but they only charged me $39. And I got a free paint touch up kit for our original paint job. I was impressed.
Gerald
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Here, here! I’ve been a satisfied Marathon owner for 10 years now.
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My general opinion of Marathon is that they do high quality work with price being little factor in their decisionmaking. They generally offer the best of everything.
I’ve owned my 2004 XLII for about 3 years and it’s had the usual number of failures and hiccups that one might expect. I’ve only used Marathon’s service department once, and that was for a factory recall of the battery equalizer which was performed at no charge. I also thought that they did great work, were courteous and helpful, and they have a great place to hook up and park outside while you’re waiting your turn.
As a mechanic, builder, electronics and software engineer, I know quality electromechanical construction when I see it, and with Marathon it’s clearly visible. Everywhere you look is evidence that a great deal of experience and skill went into this build.
My greatest regret about this coach is the unavailability of wiring diagrams and program codes that would otherwise allow me to perform self maintenance and upgrades on its systems. After 13+ years, this coach is a technology dinosaur in many respects and I have a big upgrade project ahead of me. As Marathon estimates were in the $20-$50K range, I’ll be looking at alternative solutions that I can participate in.
-fred
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Those guys are awsome ! even before i purchased my coach they helped me out ! then i ran across this wonderful site ! every one has been awsome ! all i have to say is I own a Marathron and the red carpet comes out. Not sure if the rest of the convertors get this wonderful treatment ! i hope i didnt start something !
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Here’s another satisfied Marathon owner who has bent Leon’s ear multiple times …
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Working on changing the dash gauge lights to LED. Several of the old bulbs had melted the plastic bubble they sit in on the back of the gauge. Some light bulbs coming out in pieces. After replacing all the bulbs, during the test one started to flicker, then all went out, followed by the smell of melting plastic.
One of the new LED bulbs had dislodged one of the little yellow squares and shorted out. Now no power to the instrument panel. Exterior running lights work when switch activated, but no power to dash gauges.
Trying to trace wire 114 to find a fuse or something tripped. Checked circuit breakers front and back and none tripped.
Thanks in advance for any guidance.
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I’m surprised that the power to the entire cluster went out. There is an electronic rheostat/dimmer in the dash light circuit that I’d have expected to go first. My dimmer is on the underside of the dash. Did you check the breakers in the outside wiring closet next to the driver?
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I have checked the circuit breakers in the drivers side compartment.
I have the dimmer on the bottom of the dash. How do you check it?
The wires don’t appear to come out.
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John did you use 12 volt or 24 volt led’s. I did the same thing 2 years ago and found most of the pig tails melted because of the incandescent bulbs. The first set of LED’s I received were 12 bold and they lasted about 15 seconds before they got smoked, your dash uses 24 volt bulbs, or at least my did. I got Prevost Fort Worth to wire my dash lights to use 12 volt bulbs and has worked perfectly now for 2 years. Hope this helps.
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Mark,
I used 24 volt LED bulbs.
Just can not figure why there is no power. Instrument cluster has continuity on the ground wire and on the 114 wire, but no voltage.
Thanks Mark.
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If your Marathon Dash lights do not come on you have blown the 2 amp fuse located in the fused terminal strip block mounted behind dash panel. Look closely behind dash panel find block. Have the area darken so you can see which fuse has blown.
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Ed,
Thanks for the response. I had had aproblem with one of those fuses in the past.
The little red light indicated which fuse it was then. No red lights now, but I did
pull each fuse and check. All were good. Still looking.
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Called Prevost PASS and walked through some things that I had already checked.
Determined that the rheostat was bad by disconnecting and getting voltage on wire 114.
Twisted the two wires from the rheostat together and all gauge lights working.
Thanks to all.
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Good service from PASS..
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