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Curb side front turn light
I have the curb side front turn signal no workie and went out today to change the light to an LED. But when I took the old one off the wire pulled out of the wall. The connector had worked out and I have no positive wire to connect the new light. I can see nothing thru the hole in the stainless. Any idea how this wire routes thru the wall? Or any ideas on how to fish it out?
The marker light just below the turn signal is working. Are these grouped or wire tied together in any way?
I think it is too far towards the rear for me to get access via the access panel for the door lock air actuator and I hate pulling that panel anyway as I have to take the co-pilots chair out to get to it.
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12 Replies
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You might consider a bore scope through the hole to locate the wire -
Hi Joe, I just had the same problem with our 99 Marathon. I also switched all my lights out to led’s, and to answer your question, yes the lights are wired together. My positive wire had also come off and i could not find it from the outside at first. It was on the roadside of the coach midway down the side of the bus, over the bus air bay. After taking part of the A/C duct apart we found the wire running inside the duct work, after reconnecting the wire everything worked. The turn signal is on top and the running light on the bottom, the running light has a pig tail from the top light (signal) light and both have a power wire and a ground wire that uses one of the screws that attach the lights to the coach. New led’s look great and are much brighter. Hope this helps.
Mark
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Thanks for the help, I’ll try and do a little fishing before going inside to do a little de-construction.
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joe, did you get 24V markers or are yours 12v? Mine are 24V.
Bill
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Bill,
Mine are 12V.
I bought Truck-lite 21075R and 21075Y using the NAPA card. They are not exact duplicates of the OEM but I think they look good and a lot brighter. They likely have a 24V version.
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your side marker lights are approx 2 by 6 inches. You could cut a small hole under light thru siding to locate wire that is broken off. Just a thought that you have to weigh in before dismanteling inside wall. seal back up with GE Silicon. Light covers up inspection hole. I have simular problem left rear and that is how I did it. Can’t tell it and it is water tight. Your new led lights will prob(if like mine) only take the two outside screws any way. FWIW. Bob
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Joe, I found 24V exact matches for the base that have 16 LED’s (it’s nothing more than the old double bubble base that have been used on big rigs for years) and then I have ordered a bunch of Trucklite covers that snap right on to that old base that match the ones we have on our buses(currently on backorder). Problem is, I tried to re-order more lights in the 24V version and my supplier has dicontinued them. But fear not, I have found a little module that will step down 24V to 12V and then you can use any commomly available light that will fit the mounting holes. I have even found some that are grounded through the base of the light like the originals. The only problem that I have not overcome is finding a good spot to spice in my 24v to 12v module It might take more than one of them because it can only accomodate 1amp of draw (10 marker lights or 6 STT, but that will be enough to do one side of the bus markers. I did not find any 24V LED version of the style of lights that are on our bus at Trucklite.
I don’t know what your NAPA store is charging, but the 16LED base is $5.11 each and the lens cover that I get from Trucklite is $7.30 each (part# 9077red & 9077A- amber) You will probably need some small of the rubber compression nuts (I forget what the official name is) because some of them will most likely not allow you to re-tighten them. I have used a small hemostat to hold that dumb wire from slipping back through the hole. They certainly did not splurge on the length of wire going to the side markers.
I have not installed these on my coach yet (no time-still working), but I will have it done before the July seminar.
Feel free to call me at 800-496-6303 during the day. I could use the diversion from work.
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My 98 is 12 volt on lights(marker and turn) don’t know what year they changed them because the 89 I had was 24 volt. Been paying about $11.50 each for complete led. Side lights. FWIW Bob
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Bob, If you have what I call a double bubble- they cost me only $5.11 each. The other light that I see on the later model coaches, and for me that is 2000 and later, are a rectangle surface mount, that are 5 7/8″ x 1 7/16″ and have 21 LED’s in them. they are all 12V and cost about $100 wholesale. I’m not at work, so I do not remember the exact price. They come with 2 wires that have a .180 bullet plug. I’ve seen lots of these style lights with only three or 4 LED’s on Liberty coaches. Maybe, more and brighter lights with all that polished stainless would be too blinding.
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Turn light hooked up and working.
I removed the vent cover from the end of the curb side a/c duct at the stair well and was able to see the loose wire. With two long #14 copper wires, one run from the outside via the normal wire access behind the light, and the second thru the duct, I was able to hook the loose wire and pull it back thru the hole. Took about 10 minutes when not in a rush.
Lucky or good? I’m not sure which.
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JOE Did you install the windshield yet?
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No to the windshield installation. It made the trip home in the toad safely and is laying on my work bench waiting ……for installation or for me to drop something on it.
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