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E-10 foot valve troubleshooting?
So I broke down and changed the E-10 treadle valve due to a slow overnight loss of about 70psi in my break system. Bendix Rebuilt valve.
But after an hour to remove and 2 hr to install, the rebuilt valve leaked at the upper body joint. It looks like the o-ring had a cut upon assembly. Napa is getting me a second replacement but before I spend 2 more hours installing, can I
1) install the mounting plate which would seal the problem joint and
2) just connect shop air to the primary supply connection?
No air should leak from the body joints and none should come out of any of the other ports. Correct?
then do the same with the secondary supply with the same results.
i really don’t want to send 2 hrs installing until I know it is leak free.
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9 Replies
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I’ve never messed with a foot treadle but your idea to bench test makes a whole lot of sense. Ideally you should bench test the leaky one just to verify the leak and practice the process.
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In July my foot valve was hanging up on front brakes so we were in northern calif so I called Prevost and the part# on the valve had been superseated by a different part # both Bendix parts but the new valve was a little different but it worked great. I went to a truck supply shop for the valve. Here is a pic of old valve, The new valve I had to use old spacer Old bendix #109174 E15 new Bendix #800632 E10 valve
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Here is a pic of new valve
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I assume by spacer you mean the top most section which is thru bolted between the mounting plate and the valve body (which comes pre assembled but is at least 2 more sections).
i reused the partial threaded bolts for the mounting plate. I now wonder if these bottomed out and did not pull the sections together adequately. I don’t think so as the leak appeared to be at one spot on the diameter. But I’ll check when I bench test.
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Here is the spacer i was talking about. I remember having to go to hardware store. Is the part # the same as you put on? 800632 E10
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Your spacer is what I called the mounting plate. It has the pivot point for the pedal and the rubber boot on the top. Has 3 holes for mounting to the valve and 3 for mounting to the floor.
I bought a reman from Bendix part number OR101100X. I think the original part number was 101100N. It looks slightly different from yours. Both E-10 I’m sure.
Heading to NAPA now to see if the replacement is in. I checked the bolt length when I got home and there is no way they bottomed out before pulling the parts tight. I’m sure the o-ring was damaged by Bendix upon assembly.
Maybe I’ll get the replacement bench tested after work tomorrow.
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I bench tested the replacement E-10 tonight. Plugged the opposite side supply port and shop air on the other. No leaks at the body joints and the valve works properly. Leaks at the exhaust or delivery ports with the pedal lifted.
I mounted it back down to the floor and cleaned the fittings again. Ready for the fittings and air lines to be re-installed. maybe Saturday this job will be done.
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After I replaced the pedal valve I adjusted and serviced all the brakes and what a difference it made in the braking
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I got the valve changed today. No leaks after addressing 2 problem fittings.
I have been trying to find a small leak (primary and secondary leak down over night) for about 3 years. Jeff could not find it, I tried Jon’s ultrasonic leak finder last year at Foley. No joy by anyone.
The E-10 and the SR-1 spring brake valve were the last of the QR-1, R-12, double check, pressure switch etc. to be changed. so every moving part in the brake system has been changed in the last 3 years. I was hopeful throwing parts at it would fix it. After sitting several hours, No joy it still seems to be slowly leaking down.
Headed to Daytona the end of the month. Will see how it brakes. I agree everything I have done to the brakes from chambers, to slack adjusters, to all the valves have made a difference in braking.
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