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92 XL40 Liberty Engine access
I am going to ask this question not because I have an immediate need for access to the rear of our 8V92, but because I have this fear that if there is an issue with the air compressor or alternator the access would be very hard to get to. I would like to check out this area to make sure there are no leaks or hoses needing attention.
I see what looks like a removable panel in the floor above the rear of the engine,,, but from inside the coach I can not see an easy way to lift the carpet or move the bed. The bed runs cross ways in the coach and there is about a 16″ floor space between the bed platform and the lower wall under the drawers that run across the rear of the bedroom. I thought the carpet would be velcro’d or something so you could remove it but it does no appear that is true.
Anyone with some experience with this access on a Liberty ?
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12 Replies
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On my 87 coach with the 8V92 I had a North / South bed and an easy cover beneath it to get at the top and rear of the engine. As easy as it was to use that cover I had the alternator replaced twice by Prevost and they chose to remove it from the bottom of the coach. I watched them do it and it wasn’t difficult at all. The compressor is smaller and lighter so I would guess that would be even easier.
The connections were removed, the bolts holding it in place were removed and then it was brought back slightly, and guided down the bell housing until the mechanic could get his arms around it and carry it away. Replacement required the mechanic to return it along the same path pushing it up and onto the bell housing where he guided it into place. There was a lot of grunting because the 50DN alternator weighs well over 100 pounds. But he did it. One thing that made it easy, if you want to call what he did easy, was his helper lowered the coach down once the alternator was alongside the bell housing so rather than do 100% lifting he was more or less holding it while the coach came down to the alternator.
I did some work in there on my coach working off a barn floor to repair broken wires at the alternator and I actually had no issues.
So to answer your question if you choose to leave the engine cover in place you can do anything you need to up to and including an in frame rebuild from the bottom or through the engine bay doors.
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I was not expecting that answer,, Now you got me thinking. I was going to build a pit when I built my barn but I was still working at the time and just did not take the time to dig it. I have regretted that ever since especially when lubing, and now more than ever.
I may just have to build a mini pit maybe only 12′ long instead of the 40′ I had planned, and maybe 4′ deep instead of the 6′. I can see the air compressor from the battery passenger door but reaching it would be hard, can not even see the power steering pump or alternator. Definately did not think about reaching it from below.
I have raised the coach up on air and driven it up on boards to lube but even then there is not much clearance so I never looked up behind the engine in the bell housing area, come to think of it I think there is a mud flap that goes accross that prevents seeing that area.
Anyway, your explanation helps me understand why Liberty did not make access any easier. I know that floor plate looks like it is replaced with a tunnel when there is a series 60 in the coach and they all seem to run the beds long way to accomodate.
Thanks again Jon, I was just focused on that floor plate.
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Do not make the pit deeper than 4′ unless you are much taller than me.
At that depth I can reach and work on 95% of whatever needs access from below. If you make it deeper you will need to work from a 2 step ladder or even a taller one.
You need your feet planted on the floor, especially when struggling with anything that needs you to pull pretty hard to remove. The transmission filter on my 87 was an example of that. Sitting on my butt on the barn floor all I would do is spin myself. From the pit however I could wedge my feet and legs against the pit and get sufficient torque to loosen the filter.
Even with a 4 foot pit you will need a step stool to reach things like the 3 port Norgrens on the frame, or the items driven off the accessory case on your engine.
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Do you think 12′ is long enough ? I figured most of the work is either the front or back of the coach. Did you build the walls of the pit with block and fill them or form and pour them ?
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The length needs to be equal to the distance from the rear bumper to the bulkhead infront of the drive axle.
I’m assuming to service the front you need to reposition the coach.
Allow space beyond the rear bumper for steps or a ladded to get into the pit.
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Forgot to mention. My garage and pit is perfect. Perfect if I had a 40 foot coach. With a 45 it is still better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick, but now my 45 foot coach covers the steps so getting under it and down into the pit isn’t so easy. My point is add another three feet if you have the space for when you trade for a 45 footer.
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Thanks again, I would have been pissed after spending the money to go 6′ and then have to use a step ladder to get back up.
Funny you mention 45′, We were looking for a later model Liberty for a while when I had the 60 series infatuation, our 8V92 was very anemic on take off and we were pulling a 30′ Cigarette boat. If we had to stop on a grade the light would almost change before we could get rolling again. I installed the MAP sensor mod and the coach came alive. It rolls right away now and is fun to drive.
Sorry I got side tracked, anyway my point was we were looking specifically for 40′ because of the combined length of coach and boat. Now we have a 21′ picklefork drag boat and length is not an issue but I am more concerned with weight and manuverability after having this 40′ and a previous 40′ Eagle. We like the 40′ length and in fact we stopped looking for a 60 series because most of them were in 45′ coaches (and the anemic situation was cured). I know bigger is better, but for the two of us 40′ is just right, without slides.
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There are relatively few 40 foot coaches with the Series 60. Initially the Series 60 had to be in a 45 foot coach because the combination of the S-60 and the 5 speed Allison was too long for the space available on the 40 footer. The 6 speed Allison with its shorter length made the S-60 possible in the 40 footer.
Ditto on the anemic 8v92 which needs the turbo spooled up before it can develop any power to speak of. But once it can get up to about 1500 it comes alive and is a good performer. It is just the nature of the engine.
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Jon,
How wide is your pit and did you build in ventilation or drains into it?
DKO
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My pit is 24 inches wide, 48″ deep, and running the full length on both sides is a “step down” so I can cover it completely if I choose using 2 X 10 boards cut to about 27″ long.
I have plumbed air and electric into the pit at each end. In the center I have a sump about 8″ deep, and I use a small sump pump to lift any trapped liquids into a drain pipe that is near the top of the pit and which goes into an oil separator outside of the garage. All my shop floor drains go through the separator. Nothing can get out of the pit unless I plug in the sump pump. That is because if I accidently spill oil or fuel I can contain it and not have it end up on the ground.
As a side note, next to the bus dump valve in the floor is my sewer connection so I can dump my holding tank, and I have a campground power supply with 20, 30 and 50 amp receptacles so the pit is not only a way to service the coach, it is the coach’s campsite when we are home.
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Thanks, Jon. I appreciate the information about your pit. Eventually I am plan to find some property and build a bus barn with a pit. I will probably pick your brain more when that day comes.
DKO
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OK, so as it turns out getting access to the rear of our 8V92 became more important since we lost air last night and needed to get to the compressor governor. Tried to get to it from the passenger door by the batteries but all I could do is touch it,,, much less put a wrench on it.
Called Liberty and they promised they had made accomodations for the floor cover removal so I dove in this morning.
It was not as bad as I had originally thought and actually I had the floor access cover out in about an hour including the careful picking and poking to get it figured out. I can pull the cover in about 15 minutes now that I know “the rest of the story”. Sure makes it sweet to have that much access to the rest of the engine. I took pics and will post on here when I am finished.
I feel relieved now that I can inspect or repair anything back in that “black hole”. It has been in the back of my mind every time I suspect an issue back there.
Just got back with the new governor but waiting for this rain storm to pass so I can go back out and install it,,,, will post the part number and cross over number on the Pneumatic area when I see the results.
Once I lifted the carpet from the floor and rear wall under the drawers the access panel was exposed. Carpet strip is used to hold the carpet, and also found staples. Staples are not going back.
The access panel extends under the bed base so a section of the bed base has to be removed.
Removed the screws under the bed that held the removable section of the bed base. These screws are hidden under a strip of carpet. Also remove the screws along the end of the bed base so the side of the bed can be lifted from the base.
Had to lift the side of the bed closest to the drawers from the base high enough to remove the section due to the bed frame extending lower than the top of the section. You have to block the bed up from the base for the section removal and also give enough room to remove the access panel,, it is close to the drawers when you lift it out.
There are phillips head screws that hold the access panel and once they are removed the access panel can be lifted out. The carpet on the floor lays back down on the tack strips OK but I am using velcro on the wall area.
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