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Overhead Compartment removal
Time to remove the overhead compartments and get ready to frame out! Any advice or pictures on where to start? I do know that I have to find the wiring to all the lights and disconnect. Do the overheads come out in pieces or one long cabinet? Here’s a picture of what my overhead compartments look like.
Thanks for your help and experience in advance! -
19 Replies
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Just start cutting. Not much wiring good to use in future there anyway for conversion. I removed roof inner sheets also. There is foam shot in but no thermal break over ribs. A 1/2 foam board under your ceiling material will give you super insulation. The roof is where you gain and loose most of your heat and cooiling. Plus you can locate ribs to attach your wall frameing to. Self tapping drill screws are good there. also can run some overhead conduit. FWIW Bob
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All wires are numbered —printed on wires. the clearance and side turn indicatores will be ### in the low 20’s 21 thru 23 with a Letter after them. You shouldn’t get close to them they are run close above curve of ceiling.All red wires are 24 volt. the # on wires are volt first(24 or 12) the circuit (23 clearance light) the wire size. example 12-23-16 would be 12 volt clearance lights 16 guage. FWIW Bob
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Ask questions here: Maybe between us we can provide entertainment/ learning experience for some– and I’m on my 3rd prevost conversion. first two from seated coaches this one from XLE salvage shell. I have had them down to the bare bones and still learn something new every day!! Willing to share mistakes and parts… I have 91 body parts sitting around.
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I agree with Bob.
We have members who have done their conversions and who have always been willing to share information. Don’t hesitate to bookmark the Prevost publications page and make extensive use of the data you can access through that site.
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Thought it might be helpful to both home builders doing the task and to others understanding what is going on with their coaches. The big plus is we can get new Ideas from each other!! and solve problems!! Bob
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Thanks Jon! Bob… Looks like the beginning of a great relationship here friend :)! Thanks for the advice, I will post pictures as I do the work so others can know of the do’s and don’t! So far my body parts look good ….but who knows what I may run into. Will check you out for parts if needed. I do have a drivers side window that is fogged. Guess the seal broke. Got to do something with it soon …. can’t see out my mirrors.
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Ok, yesterday I spent 5 hours trying to remove the overhead compartments. Man are these Prevost built tough. Got no where fast. Can’t do a lot of cutting with sawzall. Got a wiring harness that goes from the front to the back through the compartment bins. Got to figure this one out because I do not want to have to rewire it. Oh, got it torn apart but still didn’t get any of the compartments down yet. Looks like it’s going to be a TUFFIE!
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Nothing that will stop you in your tracks in your conversion. cut them.. the lights for the clearance marker lights you will be able to tell and if you cut them no big deal. easy fix. All control wiring runs below floor in a tunnel(most in PVC) ABS-TRANS-Eng-lighting—everything===below floor except curtiousy & couple side clearance lights on a seated coach. The mounted turn signal indicators feed from below..
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Thanks for the heads up! Not sure if I have the nerve to do it, will see! One way or the other they are coming out this week. Gotta get movin on this thing!
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There all on breakers–at worst case — color coded—- yellow 12 volt red 2v volt FWIW future refetance all wires have code tatoo on them usuall 2 or three didget some with a letter and > or < indicating direction of cuttent flow.. Is that too much info? Most all connectors have paper tag with code stamped there is a ledgen on prevost we site that tells which switch they plug into..& what it controls---lots of extras that go nowhere =just incase wires... Bob blk ground usually single # and letter
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With your overheads, first remove the doors, then at the top, just behind where the doors pivot, is a plastic cover that can be removed by using a flat screwdriver. Under that cover are bolts up through the roof of the cabinet into the coach roof. Remove these bolts and the front of the cabniets come down. There are also bolts at the back but I have forgotten how those came out. Once you get the cabinets down, then sawzall them into pieces to get them out the door. Bob is right, if you cut wires you shouldn’t just splice them back together with butt slpices and shrink wrap. When I raised the roof on my seated coach, I had to cut nearly 100 wires from the fuse box at the front. I thought it was going to be a dauntening task, but I numbered both ends as I cut them, spliced in more wire then wire tied them and shrink wraped them. Took about 10 hours labor but everything is workimg just fine. So, I know what you are feeling but it is not impossible. Just keep taking the next step next.
Rob
Missouri
91 XL 40
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Rob in Missouri … you raised the roof? how much did you raise it? What a project that must have been. Why did you raise it?
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Dick, Motorhome shells are taller than a seated bus shell. How’re you doing? It’s 86 down here.
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The picture above was I-94 in Racine county middle of the afternoon (between Milwaukee and Chicago).
Its 13 now. 6″ of snow yesterday. Cathie is in southern California visiting an ailing relative. Bill and Jan P used our tickets and saw their first game at Lambeau Field yesteday.
Hope all is well down there!
(Apologies for highjacking the thread … George and/or Cory started it)
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Looks like you jackknife it.
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