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our bus being towed
wrecker with wheel lift or landoll?
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7 Replies
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Just had mine towed two days ago, wheels cradled, half shafts pulled and aired up.
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Bob,
I’ve had my coach towed twice – so far! Both tows with front wheel lift. Removed one drive axle. No damages either time. One tow was about 230 miles, I-40 in Black Mountain to Garner, NC. No choice, engine threw a rod out the side of the block after an in Chassis rebuild by a very reputable heavy highway shop. My belief is that result was produced by the distractions of a cell phone call to the tech under the cradle doing a run through of the bottom end torquing of bolts. Call made him come out from under the bus and when he went back under the question became, “Let’s see I finished that one so the next one is where I need to pick up.” WRONG, that blown engine occurred a scant 245 miles into a run to San Francisco, CA from Southern Pines, NC.
You have to make certain the tow company and the tow driver knows how to do it right with a Prevost.
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Towing is an event in which you can lift the front end, preferably with a wheel lift and do no harm to the coach as long as several conditions are met. A solid front axle is an acceptable lift point and on an IFS there is a safe lift point, but the risk of damage using other than a wheel lift is very high.
The suspension must hold air. If the bus sags or leans quickly then provision must be made to keep the suspension at the driving or ride height. The axles or drive shaft must be pulled. If the axles are pulled some covers need to be in place to keep oil in the hubs.
If the cause of the tow or trailering is in the rear, then there is no other option other than trailering. Just like a wheel lift is ideal for the tront, the ideal trailer has very low approach angles, and extreme care must be observed in loading so the front does not drag while entering the trailer and steps are taken to insure the bus does not get high centered on the approach end of the trailer. The owner can assist greatly if possible by using the level low to raise the coach as required for maximum clearance, but also to show the tow truck operator where to hook up air for the accessories so the coach suspension system can be operated.
In the front, near the chassis forward support points are loops acceptable for pulling. The important thing to remember is the tow cable has to be horizontal or below horizontal to avoid any damage to the lower front panels below the bumper. There are no acceptable tow loops in the rear and under no circumstances should there be any lifting from the receiver hitch or its attach points. Severe damage to the engine cradle will result. The rear chassis support points are just aft of the tag axle at the bottom of the vertical members. There is no easy to access tow point in the rear.
Peter should jump in on this topic as I am sure he can elaborate on do’s and dont’s.
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Jon you covered it pretty good , we use a landoll trailer that has a very low angle when loading on the trailer , so ,there is no chance of hitting when loading or unloading , we also wheel lift them from the front tires or we use special folks to pick it up from the front tow hooks
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for a point of clarity. My rear tow/tie down??? hooks were bent at a aprox 45 degree angle up. At this point in time in my mind I feel I wish to have any doubts erased. It seams to me we have the correct people here to clarify details. Bob
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yes I did. It was done well.
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