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BlueOx (or other option) for Dodge 2500
looking for recommendations on setup for towing a 2004 Dodge 2500 Quad Cab 4WD, Diesel, 6 Speed Manual short bed. Curb weight is just over 7000lbs. Based on weight, if I go with the BlueOx setup, I need the Aladdin tow bar (based on weight needs) and a baseplate BX1989.
Is this the best option, or are there other tow setups that match up to the BlueOx?
And I am thinking that the truck will be an easy tow. Dont need to disconnect drive train, wont need to stop every couple hours and idle to lub transmission, etc. (this is why we wont be taking the XTerra) Basically a very easy flat tow (with the option to put motorcycles in the bed for some additional fun when we get to where we are going).
And with that, where is the best source for BlueOx or other Tow Bar options?
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25 Replies
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Generally, the more popular (larger) tow bar manufacturers have tow ends that will adapt to Blue Ox, and other base plates. I chose Demco because it had the highest tow rating, 10500#, but also because the bars don’t drop when connecting and disconnecting. But I have the Blue-Ox baseplate because it has 3 rather than two or one tabs through which the pins go, and therefore would seem to be less prone to bending (though the force to push in or remove the pins would probably be higher).
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Charles,
Like you I have a Ram 2500 with the Cummins and a 4X4 with the 6 speed manual. It weighs 7600 pounds.
I have gone to great pains to avoid the tow bars that slide into the receiver on the bus because there is no way I can keep the tow bar level. So I am using a Roadmaster all terrain 10,000 pound tow bar that mounts to a base plate I made that mounts to the tow hooks on the truck. On the coach I am using a 10,000 pound adjustable height ball hitch so when the truck is connected to the coach the tow bar sits level. I have a similar set up for the H2 Hummer we usually tow.
I realize it is not typical to use tow bars that drop over a ball on the rear of the coach since the trend has been to keep the tow bar mounted on the bus so the toad doesn’t have that ugly hitch on the front when it is not being towed, but the tow bar manufacturers all used to make it a very important point to insist the bar be kep level when towing, something not possible with bus mounted tow bars that slip into the receiver.
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We use the Blue Ox Aventa II towbar which is rated for 10,000 lbs… I thought the Aladdin was only rated for 7,500 lbs. I would be sure to go with the Aventa model for safetly purposes… gives you a nice margin for loading up your toad.
Cheers, Diane
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b
The last Blue Ox I purchased from Adventurerv.net. They had the best price at that time.
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Ditto
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Jon,
Looked at the roadmaster and seems they dont have the 2″ ball mount All Terrain setup available anymore. Did some more looking at the BlueOx options and found the Allure with an optional 2″ ball adapter (rather then the pintle hookup). Am thinking with that adapter, I could get an adjustable receiver that I can raise to the right height (I am assuming that is the main issue is the height of the reveiver on the coah is too low for the higher truck bumper).
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Yes, when installed on my Ram I have to adjust the ball upwards to get the tow bar level.
Level tow bars are likely not a big deal if the toad is light in weight. But when the weight of the toad exceeds 3 tons I think keeping it level is of great importance.
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This is what I use to raise or lower the tow bar.
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We used a Blue Ox setup to tow our Dodge 2500 4×4. Ours weighed in at 8300 lbs. We use a10,000 lbs rated riser to level the tow bar.
We didn’t like the tire wear that the heavy diesel engine appeared to cause so we sold the truck and bought a Ford Explorer.
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So outside of the towbars and base plates (and wiring cables), what else is really needed here?
Brake Controllers? If so how do those work?
I understand how a brake controller in with a trailer, but not sure how they work with a vehicle?
I have a brake controller on the coach already, but I am seeing stuff for the towed vehicle as well. Do you need both components? The brake controller in the coach, I am assuming is like what I already have in the dodge for towing trailers that have electric brakes. It sends a signal to the trailer/towed vehicle that I am applying the brakes in the coach and therefor brakes should be applied in the trailer/towed vehicle. So I am assuming the towed vehicle needs to have an interface to take that info and somehow apply it’s brakes?
What are people using for brake controllers in their towed vehicles and for those that are towing (or have towed) a Dodge 2500, what is the recommended setup?
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I use a Roadmaster Brakemaster which uses air from the coach braking system.
There are other options, all good, such as M&G and Air Force One.
I chose the Brakemaster because I can move it from vehicle to vehicle once the vehicle is plumbed for air and has the base plate on the floor to hold one end.
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We use a Blue Ox brake unit and have no complaints. The Blue Ox is electric and can easily be moved from vehicle to vehicle. It has a small monitor/control unit that mounts in the bus and uses a radio link to the towed unit. This allows adjusting the gain and applying the towed brakes from the bus driver’s seat.
FYI: We towed our Dodge 2500 4×4 for about 2K miles without any brake unit. Our coach had no problem stopping the extra un-braked weight. We did notice the difference once we got the Blue Ox brake unit. I wouldn’t recommend towing without brakes. Circumstances pushed us into a time crunch and I decided to take the risk.
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So I think I made up my mind… Was about to pull the trigger on a very nice, 10K limit 20′ open trailer to put the Dodge on, but I think for the ease of use, I will go with flat towing the dodge instead. Just makes getting in and out of places that much easier and no need to store the trailer somewhere else for those smaller places we sometimes end up in.
With that said, was wondering if anyone has any experience with RV service providers for doing an instal on the Roadmaster brake setup? I can handle the blueox bars, but not sure I have the tools (and time) to really dig into running air/wires/etc.. for the brakes/lights.
We are currently in central Florida/Ocala so something closer would be better.
Camping World isn’t my first (or second) choice, I thought I kept seeing signs for Alliance Coach in the Ocala area, but when I look on the map, it’s down in Wildwood.
Thanks
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You might try one of our advertisers:
Tradewinds Coach & Marine
Kyle Bennett 386-848-4466
1995 Eidson Dr. DeLand, FL 32724
kbennett@tradewindscoach.com
From Ocala, go East on 40 and take 17 South and you are in DeLand…about 55 miles or so total.
Wildwood is about 25 miles South of Ocala on 35 or about 35 miles taking I-75
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In Ocala is the Hitching Post. They are very knowledgeable, carry all the major brands of hitches, tow bars, etc., and do a lot of RV work. They also specialize in LED lighting, and they advertise in Bus Conversion Magazine.
FWIW, I am a Ready Brake fan. You might want to check that system out before you buy a tow bar and a brake system. I installed my system myself and it has worked flawlessly for several years.
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