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level system
New to the site,1996 royale front passenger side kneels but will air up when cranked,level low light is on but will go out when bus airs up,alson have no manuels for the bus any help would be nice.Thanks Willy
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16 Replies
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Welcome Willy. You are facing a common problem and fortunately it is a relatively easy problem to diagnose, isolate and fix. Look in the articles section of this web site and take the opportunity to read the articles that relate to your air and suspension systems.
One thing I would not recommend is to turn your coach over to anyone and say “fix the air leaks”. The only way you can do that is if you are prepared to spend an amount akin to our national debt. A lot of us have succeeded in isolating and fixing air leaks and it just takes some patience and a little understanding of how the systems are layed out.
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What Jon said Willy. After have spending several K with Prevost and mine’s got better but still leans after several days, gonna start to check things myself. The only one that will do the best thing for your coach is you. I’ve been thinking the next time I have air problems, gonna do a different paint job and call it a Lowrider! Chech and Chong style. Seriously, the info on the site, Thanks to many, will at least be able to identify and talked to folks that are working on your coach.
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Many years back we had a leaning problem which turned out to be a leaking air bag and the only cure was replacement. We found a couple of valves that needed replacing as well. Today, the bus does not lean but it still loses air in the 3 tanks pretty quickly after stopping but the bus does not lean. I am already down from 120 psi to under 100 and I only stopped about 3 hours ago. The leaks are not in the easily accessible area outside front where are the level low stuff is so I have to find some time to start chasing or live with it. Since it stays level (OK, the front air bags lose air very slowly and I usually have to pump them up again every 3-5 days) it’s pretty easy to ignore!
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I just sold a 1997 Royale if you need help I might be able to help , Bill any air leak from the primary or secondary tanks is not good , in my Royale it would not lean , and in all three tanks it would hold air for months , if air is lost out of the two tanks that’s not acceptable in my mind , I did most of the work myself it takes time and money but not that much money to be safe , I don’t care what Prevost says is safe , no air lost out of those tanks is safe , it should hold air for months in those two tanks!!!!!!!!
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But where do you start? I can’t begin to afford to tell Prevost to find a leak. I don’t have jacks or ramps so getting under the coach on my own is challenging. I did just roll up on a curb so I could take a look under but not for the air issue. Campgrounds are not big fans of an RV on jacks (or any other work) so we just plug away. We go into Prevost service once a year (about 10,000 miles) and hope that’s it. We just got our Cruisairs working to the tune of $5500 (to fix one and rebuild another unusable one) plus something close to $4000 for the Prevost service call. Whatever else I do I have to do and I can’t figure out how to do that when I move every 3-5 days and from campground to campground working all of those free hours.
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If both the primary and secondary air tanks lose air at the same rate try replacing the emercency / parking brake valve. It is less then $50 and easy to replace. That solved one of my big air leaks.
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The starting point is simple. Go to the Prevost car web site and print out a large scale pneumatic system drawing for your coach.
Then start the process with the primary and secondary circuits. Peter is on target in saying no air loss should be seen from those two circuits. Once you have the brake systems leak free then concentrate on the accessory system, starting with the suspension. (Actually three suspensions, left rear, right real, and front.) When the suspension is leak free then continue on to the balance of the accessory system. Pick the “low hanging fruit” as Hector calls it by getting at all the easy stuff first. You will have a big impact just using soapy water and fixing those leaks that are obviously blowing bubbles. After that identifying leaks gets more difficult and involves more patience and more time consuming methods. There is no easy way to do it.
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I am glad that helped you Andre it can solve a lots of the air leaks replacing the park brake valve and tag valve we talked about those things , tag I believe is hooked to the aux air gauge
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I do hear my tag valve leaking at times but usually a wiggle will stop the noise. However, maybe it’s not stopping a leak. Thanks for that heads up. Are these 2 valves Prevost only parts or something I should be able to find on the internet or at a NAPA?
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Park brake valve and tag valve napa
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Cool! Thanks! Pull them and get the numbers or get the part numbers from somewhere?
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These style detectors work unbelievable well. http://www.microphonics.com/
I have one similar to this
Ken
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This is what I got from Prevost for my 1998 shell.
Valve, Parking Brake 40 PSI PP-1 Prevost Part # 641128 $37.16
This part number is just for the valve for the parking brake. The handle, pin and nut are not included with this part number.
I do not have the part number handy for the tag axle valve.
Both valves should be availble from NAPA or any place that sells truck parts.
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To all those who would consider an ultrasonic leak detector:
They are great devices. You can hear air leaks that you cannot hear with a stethoscope or may not even be able to find with soapy water. If you buy one with a “noise” generator you can even find where the gaskets in your entry door and bay doors are leaking. You can hear switches and relays starting to go bad by listening to the sound of the electric arc as contacts are made and broken.
But……(you knew this was coming)……….the one place they would be very valuable they fail to function. That is any holes or leaks in the rubber of the air bag due to aging or a pin hole will not be detected. You have to relay on the leak being in a spot where soapy water will work or you need to pressurize it and look for a pressure drop or air bubbles in Hector’s Texas bubbler.
Another one to consider….
http://http://www.amprobe.com/Amprobe/usen/HVAC-Tools/Ultrasonic-Leak/TMULD-300.htm?PID=73418
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Willy if you notice almost everyone that has responded to your post has their info in the signature line. Update yours it really helps those that want to help you.
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